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uRadMonitor – Node Online!

It’s official. I’m now part of the uRadMonitor network, & assisting in some of the current issues with networking some people (including myself) have been having.

It seems that the uRadMonitor isn’t sending out technically-valid DHCP requests, here is what Wireshark thinks of the DHCP on my production network hardware setup:

WireShark Screencap
WireShark Screencap

As can be seen, the monitor unit is sending a DHCP request of 319 bytes, where a standard length DHCP Request packet should be ~324 bytes, as can be seen on the below screen capture.

Valid DHCP
Valid DHCP

This valid one was generated from the same SPI Ethernet module as the monitor, (Microchip ENC28J60) connected to an Arduino. Standard example code from the EtherCard library was used to set up the DHCP. The MAC address of the monitor was also cloned to this setup to rule out the possibility of that being the root cause.

My deductive reasoning in this case points to the firmware on the monitor being at fault, rather than the SPI ethernet hardware, or my network hardware. Radu over at uRadMonitor is looking into the firmware being at fault.

Strangely, most routers don’t seem to have an issue with the monitor, as connecting another router on a separate subnet works fine, and Wireshark doesn’t even complain about an invalid DHCP packet, although it’s exactly the same.

Working DHCP
Working DHCP

As the firmware for the devices isn’t currently available for me to pick apart & see if I can find the fault, it’s up to Radu to get this fixed at the moment.

Now, for a µTeardown:

uRadMonitor
uRadMonitor

Here is the monitor, a small aluminium box, with power & network.

PCB
PCB

Removing 4 screws in the end plate reveals the PCB, with the Geiger-Mueller tube along the top edge. My personal serial number is also on the PCB.
The ethernet module is on the right, with the DC barrel jack.

PCB Bottom
PCB Bottom

Here is the bottom of the PCB, with the control MCU & the tiny high voltage inverter for the Geiger tube.

Control Electronics
Control Electronics

A Closeup of the main MCU, an ATMega328p

Logo
Logo

PCB Logo. Very artsy 😉

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Lying Again Are We? (Mike Webb Of Hydraulicgenerators.co.uk)

Regular readers might remember a previous post about the fiasco we have had with a hydraulic generator, and in particular one person by the name of Mike Webb.

Well here we are a year down the line. The generator still doesn’t function properly, as other things have taken priority, but this is being remedied this week with a replacement hydraulic powerhead. (Correctly sized to 6cc this time, not 11cc).

I even finally got a response from Mike, most likely due to my previous post & the negative publicity that would have brought. In July Mike wrote this:

Good Morning Ben,

 

I have read your article on the above website, not entirely sure what I can say.

 

I do however sincerely apologise for the way I handled things, I could give numerous reasons, but I guess they are not your concern, I behaved badly and I am disappointed in myself for treating anyone in this way.

 

The business has now folded, the domain name www.hydraulicgenerators.co.uk and related products are now owned, manufactured and sold by another company.

 

My only hope now is that I can in some way repair the damage that has been done and hope that somewhere within yourself you can find a way to accept my apology and forgive me, I am genuinely not a bad person but circumstances outside of my control at the time led me to act in an inacceptable way.

 

I can understand how you feel, I was defrauded out of a considerable amount of money a while ago and seeking revenge has not been far from my mind for a considerable time, but it won’t get my money back, it won’t undo the damage that has already been done and whilst I might feel better about it for a short while, I have found it difficult from a personal perspective, as, whilst you may cast aspersions about me, my conscience and I do have one just won’t allow me, I can’t help myself from thinking of the other people that would be impacted upon that are otherwise innocent and I know in this particular instance there are several.

 

I can only hope that you accept my most sincere apology.

Right then. Where should I begin.

No Mike, I will never EVER forgive someone for, what was in my eyes, a deliberate act of fraud & a complete refusal to co-operate.

Now, being the resourceful person I am, and my ability (like anyone else with brains), to find out the registrar of domain names, have discovered the man is yet again lying. Company folded? I think not my son.

Two other domain names have popped up with Mike’s name on the Registrar details:
ukgenerators.co.uk
shop4generators.co.uk

(For completeness, here are the full registrar details, just in case things change after I publish this. This information is correct as of 9/12/14)

Domain name:
        ukgenerators.co.uk

    Registrant:
        Mike Webb

    Registrant type:
        UK Individual

    Registrant’s address:
 <REDACTED>

    Data validation:
        Registrant contact details validated by Nominet on 10-Dec-2012

    Registrar:
        LCN.com Ltd [Tag = LCN]
        URL: http://www.lcn.com

    Relevant dates:
        Registered on: 06-Feb-2004
        Expiry date:  06-Feb-2016
        Last updated:  16-Jan-2014

    Registration status:
        Registered until expiry date.

    Name servers:
        ns1.hostpapa.com
        ns2.hostpapa.com

    WHOIS lookup made at 16:56:14 09-Dec-2014

    Domain name:
        shop4generators.co.uk

    Registrant:
        Mike Webb

    Registrant type:
        UK Individual

    Registrant’s address:
        The registrant is a non-trading individual who has opted to have their
        address omitted from the WHOIS service.

    Data validation:
        Registrant contact details validated by Nominet on 10-Dec-2012

    Registrar:
        Webfusion Ltd t/a 123-reg [Tag = 123-REG]
        URL: http://www.123-reg.co.uk

    Relevant dates:
        Registered on: 02-Jun-2005
        Expiry date:  02-Jun-2015
        Last updated:  27-Jun-2013

    Registration status:
        Registered until expiry date.

    Name servers:
        ns1.hostpapa.com
        ns2.hostpapa.com

    WHOIS lookup made at 16:55:43 09-Dec-2014


Now for someone who is obviously attempting to tell me that he has no money or resources to reimburse us for the utter hell we have been put through in this situation, seems to be doing pretty well for themselves, in the same business that has apparently ‘folded’.
You have a shiny new logo & business name, and yet apparently have ceased trading?
Now, having been part of a firm during a takeover/company sale, domain names are usually immediately transferred into the name of the buying company. Not in this case it seems. All domains are still registered to you.
Your LinkedIn account still has you as being in the business, along with your Twitter account & YouTube account.
Not to mention, that one one of the aforementioned sites (the original hydraulicgenerators.co.uk), Mike’s E-Mail address is still very much visible on the front page E-Mail Link!

Despite all this evidence of continued trading, according to Companies House, the company is in fact in liquidation: http://data.companieshouse.gov.uk/doc/company/06770818

If this is the case, then Mike Webb is in fact operating illegally.

Mike, if you do read this, I AM NOT AN IDIOT. All I asked was that you put things right, so we would have a WORKING GENERATOR.
So far all this has cost is time & money, and I certainly don’t like being conned.
However I feel it is my duty to make sure that anyone who ever has the misfortune of dealing with you knows exactly what you have previous form for doing.

Legal notice:
All information contained in this post is correct as of 9/12/14. Information will be kept up to date & factually correct to the best of my ability.

Stay tuned for the final chapter in getting this generator fitted & working.

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Quantum LTO2 CL1001 Tape Drive Teardown

Drive Top
Drive Top

I have recently begun to create an archive of all my personal data, and since LTO2 tape drives offer significant capacity (200GB/400GB) per tape, longevity is very high (up to 30 years in archive), & relatively low cost, this is the technology I’ve chosen to use for my long term archiving needs.

Unfortunately, this drive was DOA, due to being dropped in shipping. This drop broke the SCSI LVD connector on the back of the unit, & bent the frame, as can be seen below.

Broken SCSI
Broken SCSI

As this drive is unusable, it made for a good teardown candidate.

Cover Removed
Cover Removed

Here the top cover of the drive has been removed, showing the top of the main logic PCB. The large silver IC in the top corner is the main CPU for the drive. It’s a custom part, but it does have an ARM core.

The two Hitachi ICs are the R/W head interface chipset, while the smaller LSI IC is the SCSI controller.
The tape transport & loading mech can be seen in the lower half of the picture.

Main Logic
Main Logic

Close up of the main logic.

Tape Spool
Tape Spool

Here the main logic PCB has been removed, showing the tape take up spool. The data cartridges have only one spool to make the size smaller. When the tape is loaded, the drive grabs onto the leader pin at the end of the tape & feeds it onto this spool.
The head assembly is just above the spool.

Bottom Plate Removed
Bottom Plate Removed

Bottom of the drive with the cover plate removed. Here the spindle drive motors are visible, both brushless 3-Phase units. Both of these motors are driven by a single controller IC on the other side of the lower logic PCB.

Head Drive Motor
Head Drive Motor

The head is moved up & down the face of the tape by this stepper motor for coarse control, while fine control is provided by a voice coil assembly buried inside the head mount.

Tape Head Assembly
Tape Head Assembly

The face of the tape R/W head. This unit contains 2 sets of 8 heads, one of which writes to the tape, the other then reads the written data back right after to verify integrity.

Cartridge Load Motor
Cartridge Load Motor

The tape cartridge loading motor. I originally thought that this was a standard brushed motor, but it has a ribbon cable emerging, this must be some sort of brushless arrangement.

A replacement drive is on the way, I shall be documenting some more of my archiving efforts & system setup once that unit arrives.

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Superhub Buffer Overflow?

While checking my Virgin Media-provided router recently, I came across this in the status page:

How Many Days??
How Many Days??

According to this, it seems to think it’s been running for a grand total of 44.8 years, without a reboot. I’m pretty certain that DOCSIS didn’t exist that long ago, let alone the hardware itself…
Tech Fail

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ZyXel WAP3205 Repair

Here is a ZyXel WAP3205 WiFi Access Point that has suffered a reverse polarity event, due to an incorrect power supply being used with the unit.

ZyXEL WAP3205
ZyXEL WAP3205

While most electronic gadgets are protected against reverse polarity with a blocking diode, this unit certainly wasn’t. Applying +12v DC the wrong way round resulted in this:

Blown Switchmode IC
Blown Switchmode IC (Fuzzy Focus)

That is the remains of the 3.3v regulator IC, blown to smithereens & it even attempted an arson attack. Luckily this was the only damaged component, & I was able to repair the unit by replacing the switching IC with a standalone regulator. (Replacing the IC would have been preferable, if there was anything left of it to obtain a part number from).

I scraped away the pins of the IC to clear the short on the input supply, removed the switching inductor, & tacked on an adjustable regulator module set to 3.3v. Luckily the voltage of the supply is handily marked on the PCB next to the circuit.

Replacement PSU
Replacement PSU

Replacement SMPS in place on top of the PCB. The output of the supply is connected to one of the pads of L4 (on my unit just an 0 ohm link), the +12v input is connected to the + rail side of C8 & C7 & the final ground connection is hooked in to the back of the barrel jack.

After this replacement, the unit booted straight up as if nothing had happened. All the logic is undamaged!

Makerplate
Makerplate
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uRadMonitor Network

I’ve joined the uRadMonitor network! I’m told my unit is on the way & it should be going live here in Manchester, UK within about 10 days.

uRadMonitor Unit
uRadMonitor Unit

This is a crowd project to monitor background radiation levels all over the world, so far there’s a lot of units already online.

More to come once my unit arrives!

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LDR Controlled Relay

Here’s a quick project for nightlight use: an LDR controlled relay.

Powered from 12v DC, this circuit uses an LM311 comparator to switch the relay according to the sensitivity set by the potentiometer.

LDR Relay
LDR Relay

Eagle files can be downloaded below.

[download id=”5577″]

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AD9850 VFO Board

Continuing from my previous post where I published an Eagle design layout for AD7C‘s Arduino powered VFO, here is a completed board.

I have made some alterations to the design since posting, which are reflected in the artwork download in that post, mainly due to Eagle having a slight psychotic episode making me ground one of the display control signals!

AD9850 VFO
AD9850 VFO

The amplifier section is unpopulated & bypassed as I was getting some bad distortion effects from that section, some more work is needed there.
The Arduino Pro Mini is situated under the display, and the 5v rail is provided by the LM7805 on the lower left corner.

Current draw at 12v input is 150mA, for a power of 1.8W total. About 1W of this is dissipated in the LM7805 regulator, so I have also done a layout with an LM2574 Switching Regulator.
The SMPS version should draw a lot let power, as less is being dissipated in the power supply, but this version is more complex.

DDS VFO-SMPS
DDS VFO-SMPS

Here the SMPS circuit can be seen on the left hand side of the board, completely replacing the linear regulator.
I have not yet built this design, so I don’t know what kind of effect this will have on the output signal, versus the linear regulator. I have a feeling that the switching frequency of the LM2574 (52kHz) might produce some interference on the output of the DDS module. However I have designed this section to the standards in the datasheet, so this should be minimal.

Nevertheless this version is included in the Downloads section at the bottom of this post.

The output coupled through a 100nF capacitor is very clean, as can be seen below, outputting a 1kHz signal. Oscilloscope scale is 0.5ms/div & 1V/div.

VFO Output
VFO Output (Mucky ‘Scope)
Scope Connected
Scope Connected

 

Thanks again to Rich over at AD7C for the very useful tool design!

Linked below is the Eagle design files for this project, along with my libraries used to create it.

[download id=”5571″]

[download id=”5573″]

[download id=”5575″]

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AD9850 DDS VFO PCB & Schematic Layout

I recently came across a design for an Arduino controlled AD9850 DDS module, created by AD7C, so I figured I would release my Eagle CAD design for the PCB here.

It is a mainly single-sided layout, only a few links on the top side are needed so this is easy to etch with the toner transfer method.

My version uses an Arduino Pro Mini, as the modular format is much easier to work with than a bare ATMega 328.

RF output is via a SMA connector & has a built in amplifier to compensate for the low level generated by the DDS Module.

DDS VFO
DDS VFO

Version 2 Update: Added reverse polarity protection, added power indicator LED, beefed up tracks around the DC Jack.
[download id=”5571″]

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4″ 7-Segment Display Driver

I was recently given some 4″ 7-Segment displays, Kingbright SC40-19EWA & of course, I needed to find a use for them.

I only have three, so a clock isn’t possible…

4" 7-Segment Display
4″ 7-Segment Display

As these displays are common cathode, & have a ~9v forward voltage on the main segments, some driver circuity is required to run multiplexed from an Arduino.

Driver Transistors
Driver Transistors

Driver circuit built on Veroboard, PNP segment transistors on the left, cathode NPN transistors in the centre, level-shifting NPN array on the right.

Base Bias Resistor Network
Base Bias Resistor Network

Base bias resistors on the back of the board to bias the bases of the segment drive transistors correctly.

Display Rear
Display Rear

Board soldered into the pins of the displays, which have been multiplexed.

Schematic to come along with some Arduino code to run a room thermometer, with an LM35 sensor

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HPI Savage X 4.6 LiPo Receiver Battery

3S Lithium-Polymer Pack
3S Lithium-Polymer Pack

To provide more run time with the conversion to petrol & spark ignition, I have also upgraded the on-board electronics supply to compensate for the extra ~650mA draw of the ignition module.
This modification is centred around a 3S Lithium-Polymer battery pack, providing a nominal 11.1v to a voltage regulator, which steps down this higher voltage to the ~6v required by the receiver & servo electronics.

Power Regulator
Power Regulator
Power Regulator
Power Regulator

The regulator, shown above, is a Texas Instruments PTN78060WAZ wide-input voltage adjustable regulator. This module has an exceptionally high efficiency of ~96% at it’s full output current of 3A. The output voltage is set by a precision resistor, soldered to the back of the module, in this case 6.5v. Standard RC connectors are used on the regulator to allow connection between the power switch & the radio receiver.

Receiver Box
Receiver Box

Everything tucked away into place inside the receiver box. The 3S 1000mAh LiPo fits perfectly in the space where the original Ni-Mh hump pack was located.
The completely stable output voltage of the regulator over the discharge curve of the new battery gives a much more stable supply to the radio & ignition, so I should experience fewer dropouts. Plus the fact that the engine now relies on power from the receiver pack to run, it’s a built in fail safe – if the power dies to the receiver, the engine also cuts out.

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HPI Savage Petrol Conversion – Fuel & Silicone – Chemical Compatibility

While I was already well aware of the effects of petrol on silicone products – the stuff swells up & dissolves over a very short period of time, which makes it an unsuitable material for seals in a petrol fuel system.

Fuel Tank Cap Seal
Fuel Tank Cap Seal

I wasn’t aware the O-Ring on the fuel tank cap of the Savage is silicone, as can be seen in the image above it has swelled up to much larger than it’s original size. It’s supposed to sit in the groove on the cap & fit into the filler neck when closed.
This was only from a couple of hours of petrol exposure, now the seal is such an ill fit that the cap will not close properly.

The solution here is to replace the ring with a Viton O-Ring, 2.5mm cross section, 23mm ID. I assume the fuel tank is made of polypropylene – this should stand up fine to the new fuel.

Another concern was the O-Rings on the carburettor needles, however these seem to be made of a petrol-resistant material already & are showing no signs of deterioration after 24+ hours of fuel immersion.
The O-Rings that seal the engine backplate to the crankcase also seem to be working fine with the new fuel.

Another silicone part on the engine is the exhaust coupling, between the back of the cylinder & the silencer, I’m not aware of a suitable replacement as yet, although as it will mainly be exposed to the combustion products & not raw fuel, it may just survive the task.

Exhaust Coupling
Exhaust Coupling

The extra heat from burning petrol in one of these engines may also put a lot of stress on this component, if it eventually fails I may attempt a replacement with automotive hose – time will tell on this one.

Fuel Bottle
Fuel Bottle

I’m also not sure of the plastic that standard fuel bottles are made from – their resin identification number is 7, so it could be any special plastic, but I’m guessing it’s Nylon.
However according to the spec sheet for Nylon, it’s chemically compatible with petrol – yet the plastic appears to be getting softer with exposure, so it may be a special blend designed specifically for glow fuel.

 

Besides these small glitches, the engine is running well on it’s newly assigned diet of petrol, I’m currently running an 18:1 mix of petrol to oil (250ml oil to 4.5L of petrol), this seems to be providing more than adequate lubrication. While it smokes like a chimney, plenty of unburned oil is making it out of the exhaust, so the engine’s internals should have a liberal coating.
I’m yet to actually run the model out in open space so I can start tuning the mixture, but bench tests are promising.

More to come!

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HPI Savage X 4.6 Ignition Conversion – Initial Carburettor Settings & Module Mountings

Ignition Module Mount
Ignition Module Mount
Ignition Module
Ignition Module

The engine now with it’s required ignition sensor, it is now mounted back on the chassis of the model. I have replaced the stock side exhaust with a rear silencer, so I could fit the ignition module in place next to the engine.
For the mounting, I fabricated a pair of brackets from 0.5mm aluminium, bent around the module & secured with the screws that attach the engine bed plate to the TVPs. The ignition HT lead can be routed up in front of the rear shock tower to clear all moving suspension parts, with the LT wiring tucked into the frame under the engine.
In this location the module is within the profile of the model chassis so it shouldn’t get hit by anything in service.

Rear Exhaust
Rear Exhaust

New exhaust silencer fitted to the back of the model. This saves much space on the side of the model & allows the oily exhaust to be discharged away from the back wheel – no more mess to wipe up.

Kill Switch
Kill Switch

The ignition switch fitted into the receiver box. This is wired into channel 3 of the TF-40 radio, allowing me to remotely kill the engine in case of emergency. I have fitted a 25v 1000µF capacitor to smooth out any power fluctuations from the ignition module.
The radio is running from a 11.1v 1Ah 3S LiPo pack connected to a voltage regulator to give a constant 6.5v for the electronics. I found this is much more reliable than the standard 5-cell Ni-MH hump packs.

Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank

The stock silicone fuel tubing has been replaced with Tygon tubing to withstand the conversion to petrol.

High Speed Needle
High Speed Needle

High speed needle tweaked to provide a basic running setting on petrol. This is set to ~1.5mm below flush with the needle housing.

Low Speed Needle
Low Speed Needle

Low speed needle tweaked to provide a basic running setting on petrol. This is set to ~1.73mm from flush with the needle housing.

As petrol is a much higher energy density fuel, it requires much more air than the methanol glow fuel – ergo much leaner settings.
The settings listed should allow an engine to run – if nowhere near perfectly as they are still rather rich. It’s a good starting point for eventual tuning.

 

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HPI Nitrostar F4.6 Ignition Conversion

As there was no other online example of someone converting a glow/nitro car engine onto CDI ignition, I thought I would document the highlights here.
The engine is currently still running on glow fuel, but when the required fuel lines arrive I will be attempting the switch over to 2-Stroke petrol mix. This should definitely save on fuel costs.

The engine in this case is a HPI NitroStar F4.6 nitro engine, from a HPI Savage X monster truck.

F4.6 Engine
F4.6 Engine

Above is the converted engine with it’s timing sensor. As The installation of this was pretty much standard, a complete strip down of the engine was required to allow the drilling & tapping of the two M3x0.5 holes to mount the sensor bracket to. The front crankshaft bearing has to be drifted out of the crankcase for this to be possible.

Ignition Hall Sensor
Ignition Hall Sensor

Detail of the ignition hall sensor. The bracket has to be modified to allow the sensor to face the magnet in the flywheel. Unlike on an Aero engine, where the magnet would be on the outside edge of the prop driver hub, in this case the hole was drilled in the face of the flywheel near the edge & the magnet pressed in. The Hall sensor is glued to the modified bracket with the leads bent to position the smaller face towards the back of the flywheel.
The clearance from the magnet to sensor is approx. 4mm.

Flywheel Magnet
Flywheel Magnet

Detail of the magnet pressed into the flywheel. A 3.9mm hole was drilled from the back face, approx 2mm from the edge, & the magnet pressed into place with gentle taps from a mallet & drift, as I had no vice to hand.
Initial timing was a little fiddly due to the flywheel only being held on with a nut & tapered sleeve, so a timing mark can be made inside the rear of the crankcase, across the crank throw & case to mark the 28 degree BTDC point, the flywheel is then adjusted to make the ignition fire at this point, before carefully tightening the flywheel retaining nut to ensure no relative movement occurs.
The slots in the sensor bracket allow several degrees of movement to fine adjust the timing point once this rough location has been achieved.

1/4"-32 Spark Plug
1/4″-32 Spark Plug

Definitely the tiniest spark plug I’ve ever seen, about an inch long. Some trouble may be encountered with this on some engines – the electrodes stick out about 2mm further into the combustion chamber than a standard glow plug does. This causes the ground electrode to hit the top of the piston crown. (This happens on the HPI NitroStar 3.5 engine). The addition of another copper washer under the plug before tightening should cure this problem.

RcExl CDI Ignition Module
RcExl CDI Ignition Module

Ignition module. Due to the depth of the plug in the heatsink head on these engines, I will have to modify the plug cap to straighten it out, as it will not fit in this configuration.
However, ignition modules are available from HobbyKing with straight plug caps, this makes modification unnecessary

The ignition & components used on this system were obtained from JustEngines.

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Water Management System PCB Revisions

OK, a few revisions have been made to the water management PCB, mainly to reduce the possibility of the brushed DC motors in the water pumps from causing the MCU to crash, with the other changes to the I/O connector positioning & finally upgrading the reverse blocking diode to a 10A capable version rather than 5A.

Water Management PCB
Water Management PCB

Thanks to Mayhew Labs with the WebGerber image generator for the render.

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Raspberry Pi Timelapse Setup

Here is the setup used to create the previous videos, the PiCE from Elson Designs makes the Pi water resistant, the only slight modification being to install a 2.5mm DC Barrel Jack into one of the grommet holes in the rear coupled with a custom DC-DC converter to power the setup.

CamPi_1

CamPi_2

CamPi_3

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Raspberry Pi Timelapse Video – Canal Cruising

A break from normal programming now to show a weekend canal cruise on the Macclesfield canal. Going from Marple to Poynton & returning later in the afternoon. This video was shot with the Raspberry Pi waterproofed with the PiCE From Elson Designs.

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Raspberry Pi Touchscreen Kernel Support

Here is a compiled version of the Linux kernel for the Raspberry Pi useful for those who have USB/Serial touchscreens of the 3M Microtouch or eloTouch variety.

Works with a freshly installed & fully updated Raspbian image.

I have tested this only with a 3M Microtouch EXII controller currently.

Simply overwrite the /lib folder with the new modules & overwrite the main kernel image in /boot to install.

[download id=”5568″]

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Marine Potable Water Management System

LCD Panel
LCD Panel

Having two separate water tanks on nb Tanya Louise, with individual pumps, meant that monitoring water levels in tanks & keeping them topped up without emptying & having to reprime pumps every time was a hassle.
To this end I have designed & built this device, to monitor water usage from the individual tanks & automatically switch over when the tank in use nears empty, alerting the user in the process so the empty tanks can be refilled.

Based around an ATMega328, the unit reads a pair of sensors, fitted into the suction line of each pump from the tanks. The calculated flow is displayed on the 20×4 LCD, & logged to EEPROM, in case of power failure.

Water Flow Sensor
Water Flow Sensor

When the tank in use reaches a preset number of litres flowed, (currently hardcoded, but user input will be implemented soon), the pump is disabled & the other tank pump is enabled. This is also indicated on the display by the arrow to the left of the flow register. Tank switching is alerted by the built in beeper.
It is also possible to manually select a tank to use, & disable automatic operation.
Resetting the individual tank registers is done by a pair of pushbuttons, the total flow register is non-resettable, unless a hard reset is performed to clear the onboard EEPROM.

Main PCB
Main PCB

View of the main PCB is above, with the central Arduino Pro Mini module hosting the backend code. 12-24v power input, sensor input & 5v sensor power output is on the connectors on the left, while the pair of pump outputs is on the bottom right, switched by a pair of IRFZ44N logic-level MOSFETS. Onboard 5v power for the logic is provided by the LM7805 top right.

Code & PCB design is still under development, but I will most likely post the design files & Arduino sketch once some more polishing has been done.

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Portable Power Pack Battery Replacement

Portable Power Pack
Portable Power Pack

After 13 months of very heavy use at various events, festivals & boat trips, the Li-Po battery pack at the heart of my portable power supply has died.
What initially started as one cell inflating spread to the other cells in the pack over a period of about 3 months, so I have completely replaced the pack with a larger unit.

New Pack
New Pack

The old pack was an 8.8Ah unit at 12.6v. By using smaller burst capacity cells, I have managed to squeeze in a total of 13.2Ah, still leaving space to spare for an extra 3 cell string along the top.

Cell Interconnects
Cell Interconnects

Here is the end of the battery pack, with all the cell interconnects. There are 3 2.2Ah cells in series to give the 12.6v terminal voltage, with 6 of those strings in parallel to give the total Ah rating.

A new charging circuit will be implemented to better handle the volatile chemistry of Li-Po cells, hopefully this will result in the pack lasting longer than a year!

The new higher capacity will hopefully help with power requirements at future events, still being charged during the day by a 24W solar panel, but at night will have to cope with charging two smartphones, two eCigs & running a few watts of LED lighting.
The trial-by-fire will be this year’s Download Festival in June, when I will be operating off-grid for 6 days.

More updates to come on improvements & failures!