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Cisco PSU Hack & Switched Mode PSU Background

Recently I decommissioned some networking equipment, and discovered the power supplies in some switches were single rail 12v types, with a rather high power rating. I figured these would be very good for powering my Ham radio gear.

They’re high quality Delta Electronics DPSN-150BP units, rated at a maximum power output of 156W.

Label
Label

These supplies have an adjustment pot for the output voltage regulation, but unfortunately it just didn’t have quite enough range to get from 12.0v to 13.8v. The highest they would go was ~13.04v.

After taking a look at the regulator circuit, I discovered  I could further adjust the output voltage by changing a single resistor to a slightly lower value.

Firstly though, a little background on how switched mode power supplies operate & regulate their output voltage.

SMPS
SMPS

Here’s the supply. It’s mostly heatsink, to cool the large power switching transistors.

The first thing a SMPS does, is to rectify the incoming mains AC with a bridge rectifier. This is then smoothed by a large electrolytic capacitor, to provide a main DC rail of +340v DC (when on a 240v AC supply).

Mains Input
Mains Input

Above is the mains input section of the PSU, with a large common-mode choke on the left, bridge rectifier in the centre, and the large filter capacitor on the right. These can store a lot of energy when disconnected from the mains, and while they should have a discharge resistor fitted to safely drain the stored energy, they aren’t to be relied on for safety!

Once the supply has it’s main high voltage DC rail, this is switched into the main transformer by a pair of very large transistors – these are hidden from view on the large silver heatsinks at the bottom of the image. These transistors are themselves driven with a control IC, in the case of this supply, it’s a UC3844B. This IC is hidden under the large heatsink, but is just visible in the below photo. (IC5).

Control IC
Control IC
Main Switching Transformer
Main Switching Transformer

Here’s the main switching transformer, these can be much smaller than a conventional transformer due to the high frequencies used. This supply operates at 500kHz.
After the main transformer, the output is rectified by a pair of Schottky diodes, which are attached to the smaller heatsink visible below the transformer, before being fed through a large toroidal inductor & the output filter capacitors.
All this filtering on both the input & the output is required to stop these supplies from radiating their operating frequency as RF – a lot of cheap Chinese switching supplies forego this filtering & as a result are extremely noisy.

After all this filtering the DC appears at the output as usable power.

Getting back to regulation, these supplies read the voltage with a resistor divider & feed it back to the mains side control IC, through an opto-isolator. (Below).

Feedback Loop
Feedback Loop

The opto isolators are the black devices at the front with 4 pins.

Regulator Adjustment
Regulator Adjustment

For a more in-depth look at the inner workings of SMPS units, there’s a good article over on Hardware Secrets.

My modification is simple. Replacing R306 (just below the white potentiometer in the photo), with a slightly smaller resistor value, of 2.2KΩ down from 2.37KΩ, allows the voltage to be pulled lower on the regulator. This fools the unit into applying more drive to the main transformer, and the output voltage rises.

It’s important to note that making too drastic a change to these supplies is likely to result in the output filter capacitors turning into grenades due to overvoltage. The very small change in value only allows the voltage to rise to 13.95v max on the adjuster. This is well within the rating of 16v on the output caps.

Now the voltage has been sucessfully modified, a new case is on the way to shield fingers from the mains. With the addition of a couple of panel meters & output terminals, these supplies will make great additions to my shack.

More to come on the final build soon!

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Arduino Based SWR/PWR Meter – The Board

I recently posted about a small analog SWR/Power meter I got from eBay, and figured it needed some improvement.

After some web searching I located a project by ON7EQ, an Arduino sketch to read SWR & RF power from any SWR bridge.
The Arduino code is on the original author’s page above, his copyright restrictions forbid me to reproduce it here.

I have also noticed a small glitch in the code when it is flashed to a blank arduino: The display will show scrambled characters as if it has crashed. However pushing the buttons a few times & rebooting the Arduino seems to fix this. I think it’s related to the EEPROM being blank on a new Arduino board.

I have run a board up in Eagle for testing, shown below is the layout:

SWR Meter SCH
SWR Meter SCH

The Schematic is the same as is given on ON7EQ’s site.
Update: ON7EQ has kindly let me know I’ve mixed up R6 & R7, so make sure they’re switched round when the board is built ;). Fitting the resistors the wrong way around may damage the µC with overvoltage.

SWR Meter PCB
SWR Meter PCB

Here’s the PCB layout. I’ve kept it as simple as possible with only a single link on the top side of the board.

PCB Top
PCB Top

Here’s the freshly completed PCB ready to rock. Arduino Pro mini sits in the center doing all the work.
The link over to A5 on the arduino can be seen here, this allows the code to detect the supply voltage, useful for battery operation.
On the right hand edge of the PCB are the pair of SMA connectors to interface with the SWR bridge. Some RF filtering is provided on the inputs.

PCB Bottom
PCB Bottom

Trackside view of the PCB. This was etched using my tweaked toner transfer method.

LCD Fitted
LCD Fitted

Here the board has it’s 16×2 LCD module.

Online
Online

Board powered & working. Here it’s set to the 70cm band. The pair of buttons on the bottom edge of the board change bands & operating modes.
As usual, the Eagle layout files are available below, along with the libraries I use.

[download id=”5585″]

[download id=”5573″]

More to come on this when some components arrive to interface this board with the SWR bridge in the eBay meter.

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Mobile Radio Shack Bag

There are times when I am frequently away from home base, usually either on the canal system or at a festival. During these times it’s very handy to be able to just grab a bag, without having to be concerned about sorting everything out.

This post will only detail the portable shack bag. The power supply kit that goes along with it with be detailed in another post.

The bag I use is an VHS Camcorder bag from the early 80’s. It’s very well built, & copes easily with the weight of all the radio gear.

Total weight for this system is 13.4lbs (6kg).

Mobile Radio Bag
Mobile Radio Bag

Above is the bag packed. Obligatory International Ameteur Radio Symbol patch front & centre. Being an old camera bag, this easily slings over the shoulder, with it’s padded strap.

Current Equipment
Current Equipment

Here is all the current equipment laid out. All the equipment to enable me to set up a station anywhere.
In the following photos I will go into the details.

Main Radio
Main Radio

First off, my main radio. This is the same Wouxun KG-UV950P mobile rig I have posted about previously. I have heatshrunk the power cable to keep it together & attached my standard power connector to the end. More on these later on.

HTs
HTs

In the bag I also carry three Baofeng UV-5R handhelds. Extremely useful for short range site communications, along with their charger bases. The charging base on the right has been slightly modified to support charging of my main LED torch as well, which uses similar Li-Ion based packs as the Baofengs.

Baofeng 12v Charger
Baofeng 12v Charger

As the charger bases for the Baofeng HTs take a supply of 10v DC, I have constructed a 12v adaptor system for them. (Which utter prat of an engineer at Baofeng picked 10v?)

Linear Amplifier & SWR Meter
Linear Amplifier & SWR Meter

Also included is a small Alinco ELH-2320 35W 2m linear amplifier. This was given to me from the local HackSpace in Manchester. (They don’t have any ham members, besides myself). Also here is my small SWR & Power meter, SDR kit & a pair of syringes. These are filled respectively with Copaslip copper loaded grease, (very good for stopping fasteners exposed to the weather from seizing up), and dielectric silicone grease. (I use this stuff for filling connectors that are exposed to the weather – keeps the water out).

Tools
Tools

I always keep essential tools in the bag, here is the small selection of screwdrivers which fit pretty much any screw fastener around, my heavy-duty cable shears (these buggers can cut through starter cable in one go!) and my trusty Gerber Diesel multitool.

Magmount & Pi
Magmount & Pi

Main antenna magmount & a spare Raspberry Pi.

Antenna, Patch Leads, Etc.
Antenna, Patch Leads, Etc.

Finally, the antennas for the HTs, main dual-band antenna (Nagoya SP-45) for the magmount, a small selection of spare plugs, sockets & adaptors. Also here is a roll of self-amalgamating tape, very handy for waterproofing wiring connections (especially when used in conjunction with the silicone grease), & a roll of solder wick.

Now, the main power connectors of choice for my equipment are Neutrik SpeakOn type connectors:

Neutrik SpeakOn
Neutrik SpeakOn

These connectors have many advantages:

  • They are positive locking connectors. No more loose connections.
  • They have a high continuous current rating of 30A RMS.
  • Relatively weather resistant.

Also, they have two pairs of pins – and as some of my bigger non-radio related equipment is 24v, this allows me to use a single set of plugs for everything. Without having to worry about plugging a 12v device into a 24v socket, and letting out the magic blue genie.

Once everything is packed up, here’s the bag:

Packed
Packed

Everything has a neat little pocket for easy access. Some closeups below.

HTs, Magmount
HTs, Magmount
Chargers, Amplifier
Chargers, Amplifier
Main Radio
Main Radio
Small Stuff
Small Stuff

I will post more about my portable power system later on, as this bit of my kit is being revamped at the moment.

Stay tuned!

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Precision 10v & 5v Reference

After watching a video over at Scullcom Hobby Electronics on YouTube, I figured I’d build one of these precision references to calibrate my multimeters.

It’s based around a REF102P 10v precision reference & an INA105P precision unity gain differential amplifier.

For full information, check out the video, I won’t go into the details here, just my particular circuit & PCB layout.

In the video, Veroboard is used. I’m not too fond of the stuff personally. I find it far too easy to make mistakes & it never quite looks good enough. To this end I have spun a board in Eagle, as usual.

Precision Ref SCH
Precision Ref SCH – Click to Embiggen

Here’s the schematic layout, the same as is in the video.

Precision Ref BRD
Precision Ref BRD

As usual, the Eagle CAD layout files can be found at the bottom of the post.

And the associated PCB layout. I have added the option to be able to tweak the output, to get a more accurate calibration, which can be added by connecting JP1 on the PCB.

As in the original build, this unit uses pre-built DC-DC converter & Li-Ion charger modules. A handy Eagle library can be found online for these parts.
I have however left off the battery monitor section of the circuit, since I plan to use a protected lithium cell for power. This also allowed me to keep the board size down, & use a single sided layout.

Toner Transfer Paper
Toner Transfer Paper

Here’s the track layout ready to iron onto the copper clad board. I use the popular toner transfer system with special paper from eBay, this stuff has a coating that allows the toner to easily be transferred to the PCB without having to mess about with soaking in water & scraping paper off.

Ironed On
Ironed On

Here’s the paper having just been ironed onto the copper. After waiting for the board to cool off the paper is peeled off, leaving just the toner on the PCB.

Etched PCB
Etched PCB

PCB just out of the etch tank, drilled & with the solder pins for the modules installed. Only one issue with the transfer, in the bottom left corner of the board is visible, a very small section of copper was over etched.
This is easily fixed with a small piece of wire.

Components Populated
Components Populated

Main components populated. The DC-DC converter is set at 24v output, which the linear regulator then drops down to the +15v rail for the reference IC. The linear section of the regulator, along with the LC filter on the output of the switching regulator produce a low-ripple supply.

SMPS Ripple
SMPS Ripple

Here’s the scope reading the AC ripple on the output of the DC-DC converter. Scale is 100mV/Div. Roughly 150mV of ripple is riding on top of the DC rail.

Linear PSU Ripple
Linear PSU Ripple

And here’s the output from the linear regulator, scale of 50mV/Div. Ripple has been reduced to ~15mV for the reference IC.
In total the circuit as built has a power consumption of ~0.5W, most of which is being dissipated as heat in the linear part of the PSU.

[download id=”5583″]

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Another Viewfinder CRT

Here’s another viewfinder CRT, removed from a 1980’s vintage VHS camera I managed to get cheap from eBay.

This unit is very similar to the last one I posted about, although there are a few small differences in the control circuitry.

Viewfinder Schematic
Viewfinder Schematic – Click to Embiggen

Here’s the schematic, showing all the functional blocks of the viewfinder circuitry. An integrated viewfinder IC is used, which generates all the required scan waveforms for the CRT.
On the left is the input connector, with the power & video signals. Only pins 2 (GND), 3 (Composite video), & 4 (+8v) are needed here. Pin 1 outputs a horizontal sync signal for use elsewhere in the camera, while pin 5 fed the recording indicator LED.

To make connection easier,  I have rearranged the wires in the input connector to a more understandable colour scheme:

Input Connector
Input Connector

Red & Blue for power input, & a coax for the video. For the video GND connection, I have repurposed the Rec. LED input pin, putting a shorting link across where the LED would go to create a link to signal ground. Keeping this separate from the power GND connection reduces noise on the CRT.

Viewfinder CRT Assembly
Viewfinder CRT Assembly

Here’s the complete assembly liberated from it’s plastic enclosure.

PCB Closeup
PCB Closeup

Closeup of the control PCB. The 3 potentiometers control the CRT brightness, focus & vertical size.

M01KGG007WB CRT
M01KGG007WB CRT

The tiny CRT. Only ~60mm in length, with an 18mm screen size. This tube runs on +2294v final anode voltage. Much higher than I expected.

Electron Gun Closeup
Electron Gun Closeup

The electron gun assembly, with the cathode, focus & final anode cups.

Phosphor Screen
Phosphor Screen

This screen is just a little bigger than a UK 5p piece! A marvel of precision engineering.

 

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Active Ultracapacitor Balancing

Here’s another active balancing circuit for large ultracapacitor banks, this one is designed for a series string of 6, at 2.5v per capacitor.

Based on the design here, I have transcribed the circuit into Eagle & designed a PCB layout.

Ultracap Balancer Circuit
Ultracap Balancer Circuit – Click to Embiggen

As can be seen from the circuit diagram above, this is just 6 copies of the circuit from the above link, with screw terminals to attach to the capacitor string.

Ultracap Balancer PCB
Ultracap Balancer PCB

And here’s the PCB. the MOSFETs & OpAmps are very small SMT parts, so require a steady hand in soldering. This board can easily be etched by hand as there’s only 3 links on the top side. No need for a double sided PCB.

As always, the Eagle project files & my Eagle library collection are available below:

 

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3″ CRT Composite Monitor

CRT Module

I recently managed to score a 3″ B&W portable TV on eBay, a Panasonic TR-3000G. As these old units are now useless, thanks to the switch off of analogue TV signalling, I figured I could find a composite signal internally & drive the CRT with an external source.

Panasonic TR-3000G
Panasonic TR-3000G

Here’s the TV in it’s native state. Running from 9v DC, or 6 D size cells. I’m guessing from somewhere around the 1970’s. Here is the CRT & associated drive circuitry, removed from the casing:

CRT Module
CRT Module

After dissecting the loom wiring between the CRT board & the RF/tuner board, I figured out I had to short out Pins 1,2 & 5 on the H header to get the CRT to operate straight from the power switch. This board also generates the required voltages & signals to drive the RF tuner section. I have removed the loom from this, as the PCB operates fine without. It doesn’t seem to be fussy about power input either: it’s specified at 9v, but seems to operate fine between 7.5v & 14.5v DC without issue.

Video Connections
Video Connections

Tracing the wiring from the tuner PCB revealed a length of coax snaking off to the section marked Video/Sync. I successfully found the composite input!

Running OSMC
Running OSMC

A quick bit of wiring to a Raspberry Pi, & we have stable video! For such an old unit, the picture quality is brilliant, very sharp focus.

Matsushita 85VB4 CRT
Matsushita 85VB4 CRT

Closeup of the CRT itself. I haven’t been able to find much data on this unit, but I’m guessing it’s similar to many commercial viewfinder CRTs.

Electron Gun Closeup
Electron Gun Closeup

Amazingly, there isn’t a single IC in the video circuitry, it’s all discrete components. This probably accounts for the large overall size of the control PCB. Viewfinder CRTs from a few years later on are usually driven with a single IC & a few passives that provide all the same functions.  

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Roving Networks RN-52 Bluetooth Audio

I’ve been doing some tinkering with the RN-52 Bluetooth Audio module from Roving Networks, in prep for building a portable wireless speaker system, & thought I’d share my designs.

Initially I was having some issues with RF noise on the audio output from the RN-52, as I was only using the outputs single-ended. The module didn’t like this treatment, with all the RF whine coming straight out of the speakers.

To fix this issue I have used a pair of jellybean LM386 audio power amplifiers, running in differential input mode. This solves the high-pitched whine when the audio is enabled, & also allows the module to directly drive a set of 32Ω headphones at a reasonable level.

In Eagle I have designed a simple board, routing only the audio output, serial TTL & command mode pins out, along with the supporting power supply circuitry to operate from 12v DC.

RN-52 Breadboard
RN-52 Breadboard

Above is the current incarnation of the circuit on the breadboard. The RN-52 is on the left, audio power stage in the centre & headphone output on the right.

RN-52 Breakout
RN-52 Breakout

The bluetooth module on a breakout board. I was cheap in this case & etched my own board. I’m not paying Sparkfun, (as much as I like them), an extra ~£10 for a small PCB with the pins broken out. Much cheaper to spend 15 minutes with the laser printer & the iron, & do a toner transfer PCB.
As this board is single sided, I added a ground plane on the underside with copper foil, to help with the RF issues. Breadboards really aren’t all that good at rejecting noise induced when there’s a 2.4GHz transceiver mounted on them.

LM386 Amplifier
LM386 Amplifier

The LM386 audio power stage. The differential inputs from the module are capacitively coupled with 1µF electrolytics. This setup remarkably reduced the noise on the output. I left these at their default gain of 20, as I’ll be connecting another high power amplifier stage to drive large speakers.

RN-52 Eagle Layout
RN-52 Eagle Layout

Here’s the circuit laid out in Eagle, ready for PCB.

RN-52 Eagle PCB
RN-52 Eagle PCB

And here’s the PCB layout. Only one link required for the +5v line from the TTL serial port.

As always, the Eagle PCB & Schematic layout files are available at the bottom of the article.

*Update 29-01-15*
Rerouted a few things:

  • Moved the audio power stage to the +12v rail to improve sound response. – As the LM386 has a max input voltage of 12v (absolute maximum 15v), a regulated supply is recommended. The LM386-N4 variant has a higher voltage range, up to 18v. This should be suitable for an unregulated supply.
  • Removed 1µF coupling capacitors to reduce distortion & amplifier hiss. The capacitors appeared to cause some instability on the amplifier, causing random distortion. Removing them has cured this. No signal hiss has also been reduced to a very low level.
  • Reversed input polarity on input of one of the amplifiers – this appears to produce better audio.
  • Added PWR.EN header to allow connection of power button. Saves hassle of cycling power to the board when the RN-52 goes into sleep mode.

Improved PCB & Schematic layouts.

RN-52-SCH-v3.6
RN-52-SCH-v3.6
RN-52-PCB-v3.6
RN-52-PCB-v3.6

[download id=”5579″]

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Lying Again Are We? (Mike Webb Of Hydraulicgenerators.co.uk)

Regular readers might remember a previous post about the fiasco we have had with a hydraulic generator, and in particular one person by the name of Mike Webb.

Well here we are a year down the line. The generator still doesn’t function properly, as other things have taken priority, but this is being remedied this week with a replacement hydraulic powerhead. (Correctly sized to 6cc this time, not 11cc).

I even finally got a response from Mike, most likely due to my previous post & the negative publicity that would have brought. In July Mike wrote this:

Good Morning Ben,

 

I have read your article on the above website, not entirely sure what I can say.

 

I do however sincerely apologise for the way I handled things, I could give numerous reasons, but I guess they are not your concern, I behaved badly and I am disappointed in myself for treating anyone in this way.

 

The business has now folded, the domain name www.hydraulicgenerators.co.uk and related products are now owned, manufactured and sold by another company.

 

My only hope now is that I can in some way repair the damage that has been done and hope that somewhere within yourself you can find a way to accept my apology and forgive me, I am genuinely not a bad person but circumstances outside of my control at the time led me to act in an inacceptable way.

 

I can understand how you feel, I was defrauded out of a considerable amount of money a while ago and seeking revenge has not been far from my mind for a considerable time, but it won’t get my money back, it won’t undo the damage that has already been done and whilst I might feel better about it for a short while, I have found it difficult from a personal perspective, as, whilst you may cast aspersions about me, my conscience and I do have one just won’t allow me, I can’t help myself from thinking of the other people that would be impacted upon that are otherwise innocent and I know in this particular instance there are several.

 

I can only hope that you accept my most sincere apology.

Right then. Where should I begin.

No Mike, I will never EVER forgive someone for, what was in my eyes, a deliberate act of fraud & a complete refusal to co-operate.

Now, being the resourceful person I am, and my ability (like anyone else with brains), to find out the registrar of domain names, have discovered the man is yet again lying. Company folded? I think not my son.

Two other domain names have popped up with Mike’s name on the Registrar details:
ukgenerators.co.uk
shop4generators.co.uk

(For completeness, here are the full registrar details, just in case things change after I publish this. This information is correct as of 9/12/14)

Domain name:
        ukgenerators.co.uk

    Registrant:
        Mike Webb

    Registrant type:
        UK Individual

    Registrant’s address:
 <REDACTED>

    Data validation:
        Registrant contact details validated by Nominet on 10-Dec-2012

    Registrar:
        LCN.com Ltd [Tag = LCN]
        URL: http://www.lcn.com

    Relevant dates:
        Registered on: 06-Feb-2004
        Expiry date:  06-Feb-2016
        Last updated:  16-Jan-2014

    Registration status:
        Registered until expiry date.

    Name servers:
        ns1.hostpapa.com
        ns2.hostpapa.com

    WHOIS lookup made at 16:56:14 09-Dec-2014

    Domain name:
        shop4generators.co.uk

    Registrant:
        Mike Webb

    Registrant type:
        UK Individual

    Registrant’s address:
        The registrant is a non-trading individual who has opted to have their
        address omitted from the WHOIS service.

    Data validation:
        Registrant contact details validated by Nominet on 10-Dec-2012

    Registrar:
        Webfusion Ltd t/a 123-reg [Tag = 123-REG]
        URL: http://www.123-reg.co.uk

    Relevant dates:
        Registered on: 02-Jun-2005
        Expiry date:  02-Jun-2015
        Last updated:  27-Jun-2013

    Registration status:
        Registered until expiry date.

    Name servers:
        ns1.hostpapa.com
        ns2.hostpapa.com

    WHOIS lookup made at 16:55:43 09-Dec-2014


Now for someone who is obviously attempting to tell me that he has no money or resources to reimburse us for the utter hell we have been put through in this situation, seems to be doing pretty well for themselves, in the same business that has apparently ‘folded’.
You have a shiny new logo & business name, and yet apparently have ceased trading?
Now, having been part of a firm during a takeover/company sale, domain names are usually immediately transferred into the name of the buying company. Not in this case it seems. All domains are still registered to you.
Your LinkedIn account still has you as being in the business, along with your Twitter account & YouTube account.
Not to mention, that one one of the aforementioned sites (the original hydraulicgenerators.co.uk), Mike’s E-Mail address is still very much visible on the front page E-Mail Link!

Despite all this evidence of continued trading, according to Companies House, the company is in fact in liquidation: http://data.companieshouse.gov.uk/doc/company/06770818

If this is the case, then Mike Webb is in fact operating illegally.

Mike, if you do read this, I AM NOT AN IDIOT. All I asked was that you put things right, so we would have a WORKING GENERATOR.
So far all this has cost is time & money, and I certainly don’t like being conned.
However I feel it is my duty to make sure that anyone who ever has the misfortune of dealing with you knows exactly what you have previous form for doing.

Legal notice:
All information contained in this post is correct as of 9/12/14. Information will be kept up to date & factually correct to the best of my ability.

Stay tuned for the final chapter in getting this generator fitted & working.

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Quantum LTO2 CL1001 Tape Drive Teardown

Drive Top
Drive Top

I have recently begun to create an archive of all my personal data, and since LTO2 tape drives offer significant capacity (200GB/400GB) per tape, longevity is very high (up to 30 years in archive), & relatively low cost, this is the technology I’ve chosen to use for my long term archiving needs.

Unfortunately, this drive was DOA, due to being dropped in shipping. This drop broke the SCSI LVD connector on the back of the unit, & bent the frame, as can be seen below.

Broken SCSI
Broken SCSI

As this drive is unusable, it made for a good teardown candidate.

Cover Removed
Cover Removed

Here the top cover of the drive has been removed, showing the top of the main logic PCB. The large silver IC in the top corner is the main CPU for the drive. It’s a custom part, but it does have an ARM core.

The two Hitachi ICs are the R/W head interface chipset, while the smaller LSI IC is the SCSI controller.
The tape transport & loading mech can be seen in the lower half of the picture.

Main Logic
Main Logic

Close up of the main logic.

Tape Spool
Tape Spool

Here the main logic PCB has been removed, showing the tape take up spool. The data cartridges have only one spool to make the size smaller. When the tape is loaded, the drive grabs onto the leader pin at the end of the tape & feeds it onto this spool.
The head assembly is just above the spool.

Bottom Plate Removed
Bottom Plate Removed

Bottom of the drive with the cover plate removed. Here the spindle drive motors are visible, both brushless 3-Phase units. Both of these motors are driven by a single controller IC on the other side of the lower logic PCB.

Head Drive Motor
Head Drive Motor

The head is moved up & down the face of the tape by this stepper motor for coarse control, while fine control is provided by a voice coil assembly buried inside the head mount.

Tape Head Assembly
Tape Head Assembly

The face of the tape R/W head. This unit contains 2 sets of 8 heads, one of which writes to the tape, the other then reads the written data back right after to verify integrity.

Cartridge Load Motor
Cartridge Load Motor

The tape cartridge loading motor. I originally thought that this was a standard brushed motor, but it has a ribbon cable emerging, this must be some sort of brushless arrangement.

A replacement drive is on the way, I shall be documenting some more of my archiving efforts & system setup once that unit arrives.

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ZyXel WAP3205 Repair

Here is a ZyXel WAP3205 WiFi Access Point that has suffered a reverse polarity event, due to an incorrect power supply being used with the unit.

ZyXEL WAP3205
ZyXEL WAP3205

While most electronic gadgets are protected against reverse polarity with a blocking diode, this unit certainly wasn’t. Applying +12v DC the wrong way round resulted in this:

Blown Switchmode IC
Blown Switchmode IC (Fuzzy Focus)

That is the remains of the 3.3v regulator IC, blown to smithereens & it even attempted an arson attack. Luckily this was the only damaged component, & I was able to repair the unit by replacing the switching IC with a standalone regulator. (Replacing the IC would have been preferable, if there was anything left of it to obtain a part number from).

I scraped away the pins of the IC to clear the short on the input supply, removed the switching inductor, & tacked on an adjustable regulator module set to 3.3v. Luckily the voltage of the supply is handily marked on the PCB next to the circuit.

Replacement PSU
Replacement PSU

Replacement SMPS in place on top of the PCB. The output of the supply is connected to one of the pads of L4 (on my unit just an 0 ohm link), the +12v input is connected to the + rail side of C8 & C7 & the final ground connection is hooked in to the back of the barrel jack.

After this replacement, the unit booted straight up as if nothing had happened. All the logic is undamaged!

Makerplate
Makerplate
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uRadMonitor Network

I’ve joined the uRadMonitor network! I’m told my unit is on the way & it should be going live here in Manchester, UK within about 10 days.

uRadMonitor Unit
uRadMonitor Unit

This is a crowd project to monitor background radiation levels all over the world, so far there’s a lot of units already online.

More to come once my unit arrives!

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LDR Controlled Relay

Here’s a quick project for nightlight use: an LDR controlled relay.

Powered from 12v DC, this circuit uses an LM311 comparator to switch the relay according to the sensitivity set by the potentiometer.

LDR Relay
LDR Relay

Eagle files can be downloaded below.

[download id=”5577″]

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AD9850 VFO Board

Continuing from my previous post where I published an Eagle design layout for AD7C‘s Arduino powered VFO, here is a completed board.

I have made some alterations to the design since posting, which are reflected in the artwork download in that post, mainly due to Eagle having a slight psychotic episode making me ground one of the display control signals!

AD9850 VFO
AD9850 VFO

The amplifier section is unpopulated & bypassed as I was getting some bad distortion effects from that section, some more work is needed there.
The Arduino Pro Mini is situated under the display, and the 5v rail is provided by the LM7805 on the lower left corner.

Current draw at 12v input is 150mA, for a power of 1.8W total. About 1W of this is dissipated in the LM7805 regulator, so I have also done a layout with an LM2574 Switching Regulator.
The SMPS version should draw a lot let power, as less is being dissipated in the power supply, but this version is more complex.

DDS VFO-SMPS
DDS VFO-SMPS

Here the SMPS circuit can be seen on the left hand side of the board, completely replacing the linear regulator.
I have not yet built this design, so I don’t know what kind of effect this will have on the output signal, versus the linear regulator. I have a feeling that the switching frequency of the LM2574 (52kHz) might produce some interference on the output of the DDS module. However I have designed this section to the standards in the datasheet, so this should be minimal.

Nevertheless this version is included in the Downloads section at the bottom of this post.

The output coupled through a 100nF capacitor is very clean, as can be seen below, outputting a 1kHz signal. Oscilloscope scale is 0.5ms/div & 1V/div.

VFO Output
VFO Output (Mucky ‘Scope)
Scope Connected
Scope Connected

 

Thanks again to Rich over at AD7C for the very useful tool design!

Linked below is the Eagle design files for this project, along with my libraries used to create it.

[download id=”5571″]

[download id=”5573″]

[download id=”5575″]

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AD9850 DDS VFO PCB & Schematic Layout

I recently came across a design for an Arduino controlled AD9850 DDS module, created by AD7C, so I figured I would release my Eagle CAD design for the PCB here.

It is a mainly single-sided layout, only a few links on the top side are needed so this is easy to etch with the toner transfer method.

My version uses an Arduino Pro Mini, as the modular format is much easier to work with than a bare ATMega 328.

RF output is via a SMA connector & has a built in amplifier to compensate for the low level generated by the DDS Module.

DDS VFO
DDS VFO

Version 2 Update: Added reverse polarity protection, added power indicator LED, beefed up tracks around the DC Jack.
[download id=”5571″]

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4″ 7-Segment Display Driver

I was recently given some 4″ 7-Segment displays, Kingbright SC40-19EWA & of course, I needed to find a use for them.

I only have three, so a clock isn’t possible…

4" 7-Segment Display
4″ 7-Segment Display

As these displays are common cathode, & have a ~9v forward voltage on the main segments, some driver circuity is required to run multiplexed from an Arduino.

Driver Transistors
Driver Transistors

Driver circuit built on Veroboard, PNP segment transistors on the left, cathode NPN transistors in the centre, level-shifting NPN array on the right.

Base Bias Resistor Network
Base Bias Resistor Network

Base bias resistors on the back of the board to bias the bases of the segment drive transistors correctly.

Display Rear
Display Rear

Board soldered into the pins of the displays, which have been multiplexed.

Schematic to come along with some Arduino code to run a room thermometer, with an LM35 sensor

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HPI Savage X 4.6 LiPo Receiver Battery

3S Lithium-Polymer Pack
3S Lithium-Polymer Pack

To provide more run time with the conversion to petrol & spark ignition, I have also upgraded the on-board electronics supply to compensate for the extra ~650mA draw of the ignition module.
This modification is centred around a 3S Lithium-Polymer battery pack, providing a nominal 11.1v to a voltage regulator, which steps down this higher voltage to the ~6v required by the receiver & servo electronics.

Power Regulator
Power Regulator
Power Regulator
Power Regulator

The regulator, shown above, is a Texas Instruments PTN78060WAZ wide-input voltage adjustable regulator. This module has an exceptionally high efficiency of ~96% at it’s full output current of 3A. The output voltage is set by a precision resistor, soldered to the back of the module, in this case 6.5v. Standard RC connectors are used on the regulator to allow connection between the power switch & the radio receiver.

Receiver Box
Receiver Box

Everything tucked away into place inside the receiver box. The 3S 1000mAh LiPo fits perfectly in the space where the original Ni-Mh hump pack was located.
The completely stable output voltage of the regulator over the discharge curve of the new battery gives a much more stable supply to the radio & ignition, so I should experience fewer dropouts. Plus the fact that the engine now relies on power from the receiver pack to run, it’s a built in fail safe – if the power dies to the receiver, the engine also cuts out.

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HPI Savage Petrol Conversion – Fuel & Silicone – Chemical Compatibility

While I was already well aware of the effects of petrol on silicone products – the stuff swells up & dissolves over a very short period of time, which makes it an unsuitable material for seals in a petrol fuel system.

Fuel Tank Cap Seal
Fuel Tank Cap Seal

I wasn’t aware the O-Ring on the fuel tank cap of the Savage is silicone, as can be seen in the image above it has swelled up to much larger than it’s original size. It’s supposed to sit in the groove on the cap & fit into the filler neck when closed.
This was only from a couple of hours of petrol exposure, now the seal is such an ill fit that the cap will not close properly.

The solution here is to replace the ring with a Viton O-Ring, 2.5mm cross section, 23mm ID. I assume the fuel tank is made of polypropylene – this should stand up fine to the new fuel.

Another concern was the O-Rings on the carburettor needles, however these seem to be made of a petrol-resistant material already & are showing no signs of deterioration after 24+ hours of fuel immersion.
The O-Rings that seal the engine backplate to the crankcase also seem to be working fine with the new fuel.

Another silicone part on the engine is the exhaust coupling, between the back of the cylinder & the silencer, I’m not aware of a suitable replacement as yet, although as it will mainly be exposed to the combustion products & not raw fuel, it may just survive the task.

Exhaust Coupling
Exhaust Coupling

The extra heat from burning petrol in one of these engines may also put a lot of stress on this component, if it eventually fails I may attempt a replacement with automotive hose – time will tell on this one.

Fuel Bottle
Fuel Bottle

I’m also not sure of the plastic that standard fuel bottles are made from – their resin identification number is 7, so it could be any special plastic, but I’m guessing it’s Nylon.
However according to the spec sheet for Nylon, it’s chemically compatible with petrol – yet the plastic appears to be getting softer with exposure, so it may be a special blend designed specifically for glow fuel.

 

Besides these small glitches, the engine is running well on it’s newly assigned diet of petrol, I’m currently running an 18:1 mix of petrol to oil (250ml oil to 4.5L of petrol), this seems to be providing more than adequate lubrication. While it smokes like a chimney, plenty of unburned oil is making it out of the exhaust, so the engine’s internals should have a liberal coating.
I’m yet to actually run the model out in open space so I can start tuning the mixture, but bench tests are promising.

More to come!

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HPI Savage X 4.6 Ignition Conversion – Initial Carburettor Settings & Module Mountings

Ignition Module Mount
Ignition Module Mount
Ignition Module
Ignition Module

The engine now with it’s required ignition sensor, it is now mounted back on the chassis of the model. I have replaced the stock side exhaust with a rear silencer, so I could fit the ignition module in place next to the engine.
For the mounting, I fabricated a pair of brackets from 0.5mm aluminium, bent around the module & secured with the screws that attach the engine bed plate to the TVPs. The ignition HT lead can be routed up in front of the rear shock tower to clear all moving suspension parts, with the LT wiring tucked into the frame under the engine.
In this location the module is within the profile of the model chassis so it shouldn’t get hit by anything in service.

Rear Exhaust
Rear Exhaust

New exhaust silencer fitted to the back of the model. This saves much space on the side of the model & allows the oily exhaust to be discharged away from the back wheel – no more mess to wipe up.

Kill Switch
Kill Switch

The ignition switch fitted into the receiver box. This is wired into channel 3 of the TF-40 radio, allowing me to remotely kill the engine in case of emergency. I have fitted a 25v 1000µF capacitor to smooth out any power fluctuations from the ignition module.
The radio is running from a 11.1v 1Ah 3S LiPo pack connected to a voltage regulator to give a constant 6.5v for the electronics. I found this is much more reliable than the standard 5-cell Ni-MH hump packs.

Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank

The stock silicone fuel tubing has been replaced with Tygon tubing to withstand the conversion to petrol.

High Speed Needle
High Speed Needle

High speed needle tweaked to provide a basic running setting on petrol. This is set to ~1.5mm below flush with the needle housing.

Low Speed Needle
Low Speed Needle

Low speed needle tweaked to provide a basic running setting on petrol. This is set to ~1.73mm from flush with the needle housing.

As petrol is a much higher energy density fuel, it requires much more air than the methanol glow fuel – ergo much leaner settings.
The settings listed should allow an engine to run – if nowhere near perfectly as they are still rather rich. It’s a good starting point for eventual tuning.

 

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HPI Nitrostar F4.6 Ignition Conversion

As there was no other online example of someone converting a glow/nitro car engine onto CDI ignition, I thought I would document the highlights here.
The engine is currently still running on glow fuel, but when the required fuel lines arrive I will be attempting the switch over to 2-Stroke petrol mix. This should definitely save on fuel costs.

The engine in this case is a HPI NitroStar F4.6 nitro engine, from a HPI Savage X monster truck.

F4.6 Engine
F4.6 Engine

Above is the converted engine with it’s timing sensor. As The installation of this was pretty much standard, a complete strip down of the engine was required to allow the drilling & tapping of the two M3x0.5 holes to mount the sensor bracket to. The front crankshaft bearing has to be drifted out of the crankcase for this to be possible.

Ignition Hall Sensor
Ignition Hall Sensor

Detail of the ignition hall sensor. The bracket has to be modified to allow the sensor to face the magnet in the flywheel. Unlike on an Aero engine, where the magnet would be on the outside edge of the prop driver hub, in this case the hole was drilled in the face of the flywheel near the edge & the magnet pressed in. The Hall sensor is glued to the modified bracket with the leads bent to position the smaller face towards the back of the flywheel.
The clearance from the magnet to sensor is approx. 4mm.

Flywheel Magnet
Flywheel Magnet

Detail of the magnet pressed into the flywheel. A 3.9mm hole was drilled from the back face, approx 2mm from the edge, & the magnet pressed into place with gentle taps from a mallet & drift, as I had no vice to hand.
Initial timing was a little fiddly due to the flywheel only being held on with a nut & tapered sleeve, so a timing mark can be made inside the rear of the crankcase, across the crank throw & case to mark the 28 degree BTDC point, the flywheel is then adjusted to make the ignition fire at this point, before carefully tightening the flywheel retaining nut to ensure no relative movement occurs.
The slots in the sensor bracket allow several degrees of movement to fine adjust the timing point once this rough location has been achieved.

1/4"-32 Spark Plug
1/4″-32 Spark Plug

Definitely the tiniest spark plug I’ve ever seen, about an inch long. Some trouble may be encountered with this on some engines – the electrodes stick out about 2mm further into the combustion chamber than a standard glow plug does. This causes the ground electrode to hit the top of the piston crown. (This happens on the HPI NitroStar 3.5 engine). The addition of another copper washer under the plug before tightening should cure this problem.

RcExl CDI Ignition Module
RcExl CDI Ignition Module

Ignition module. Due to the depth of the plug in the heatsink head on these engines, I will have to modify the plug cap to straighten it out, as it will not fit in this configuration.
However, ignition modules are available from HobbyKing with straight plug caps, this makes modification unnecessary

The ignition & components used on this system were obtained from JustEngines.

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Water Management System PCB Revisions

OK, a few revisions have been made to the water management PCB, mainly to reduce the possibility of the brushed DC motors in the water pumps from causing the MCU to crash, with the other changes to the I/O connector positioning & finally upgrading the reverse blocking diode to a 10A capable version rather than 5A.

Water Management PCB
Water Management PCB

Thanks to Mayhew Labs with the WebGerber image generator for the render.

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Raspberry Pi Timelapse Setup

Here is the setup used to create the previous videos, the PiCE from Elson Designs makes the Pi water resistant, the only slight modification being to install a 2.5mm DC Barrel Jack into one of the grommet holes in the rear coupled with a custom DC-DC converter to power the setup.

CamPi_1

CamPi_2

CamPi_3

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Raspberry Pi Timelapse Video – Canal Cruising

A break from normal programming now to show a weekend canal cruise on the Macclesfield canal. Going from Marple to Poynton & returning later in the afternoon. This video was shot with the Raspberry Pi waterproofed with the PiCE From Elson Designs.