With every piece of Chinese electronics I obtain, mainly Baofeng radios, they come with a Europlug-type power adaptor, and a universal plug adaptor for the mains.
The charger units aren’t too bad, there’s a fair amount of isolation between the primary & secondary, and even though they’re very simple & cheap, I can’t see any immediate safety problems with them.
The plug adaptors, however, are a different matter. These things are utterly lethal!
Baofeng PSU
Here’s the inside of the PSU. It’s just a very simple SMPS, giving an output of 10v 500mA. The fuse is actually a fusible resistor.
PCB Reverse
Here’s the back of the PCB with the SMPS control IC. I can’t find any English datasheets for this part unfortunately.
Universal Travel Adaptor
Here’s the dangerous adaptor. There’s no safety shield, so the live parts are exposed.
Internals
Here’s the adaptor split apart. The output contacts are on the left, and rely just on pressure to make contact with the brass screws on the mains input pins to provide power.
This is a very poor way to get a connection, a dirty or worn contact here would create a lot of heat if any significant power is pulled through, and could quite possibly result in a fire.
Not surprisingly, I bin these things as soon as I open the box, and charge all my radios with a 12v charging system.
Here’s the final instalment of the new high gain TV antenna & it’s masthead amplifier.
High Gain Antenna
Here’s the new antenna on it’s removable mast. This apparently will give 13db of gain over the old antenna. The masthead amplifier box is mounted just below.
Amplifier
Here’s the amplifier just below the antenna. I do hope the seals on this hold against the weather! The amplifier inside isn’t protected at all.
Amplifier Module
Here’s the module itself. This is powered by +12v injected into the coax with the power supply I previously modified. F-type connectors are used. (I don’t like these connector types, their lack of a true centre pin is poor design in my opinion).
Here’s the power supply, mounted behind the TV where the cable comes through the hull.
PSUAmplifier PCB
Here’s the inside of the amplifier module. It’s very simple, with some input filtering to block out 4G mobile signals, and a single amplifier transistor.
A while ago I blogged about modifying the output voltage of some surplus Cisco switch power supplies to operate at 13.8v.
Since I was able to score a nice Hammond 1598DSGYPBK ABS project box on eBay, I’ve built one of the supplies into a nice bench unit.
Hammond ABS CaseSupply Unit
Above is the supply mounted into the box, I had to slightly trim one edge of the PCB to make everything fit, as it was just a couple of mm too wide. Luckily on the mains side of the board is some space without any copper tracks.
PSU Fan
These supplies are very high quality & very efficient, however they came from equipment that was force-air cooled. Running the PSU in this box with no cooling resulted in overheating. Because of this I have added a small 12v fan to move some air through the case. The unit runs much cooler now. To allow the air to flow straight through the case, I drilled a row of holes under the front edge as vents.
Output Side
Here is the output side of the supply, it uses standard banana jacks for the terminals. I have used crimp terminals here, but they are soldered on instead of crimped to allow for higher current draw. The negative return side of the output is mains earth referenced.
I have tried to measure output ripple on this supply, but with my 10X scope probe, and the scope set to 5mV/Div, the trace barely moves. The output is a very nice & stable DC.
This supply is now running my main radio in the shack, and is small enough to be easily portable when I move my station.
Onboard the boat we have a small issue with a weak TV signal, and this coupled with a 60′ long run of coax is an issue. Due to the loss in the coax, we’ve lost most of the already weak signal.
To try & solve this issue, I’m fitting a masthead amplifier unit.
These amplifiers are fed power down the same coax that’s carrying the RF signal, and a special power supply is supplied with the amplifier for this. However it’s only 240v AC, no 12v version available.
Here’s the power supply unit, which fits into the coax between the TV & the antenna.
Amplifier Supply
Luckily the 240v supply is easily removable & here has been replaced with a 12v regulator.
New Supply
There’s not very much inside the shielding can, just a few filter capacitors & an RF choke on the DC feed, to keep the RF out of the power supply system.
The original cable is used, so the supply doesn’t even look like it’s been modified from the outside.
More to come on this when I get the amplifier installed along with the new coax run 🙂
There are times when I am frequently away from home base, usually either on the canal system or at a festival. During these times it’s very handy to be able to just grab a bag, without having to be concerned about sorting everything out.
This post will only detail the portable shack bag. The power supply kit that goes along with it with be detailed in another post.
The bag I use is an VHS Camcorder bag from the early 80’s. It’s very well built, & copes easily with the weight of all the radio gear.
Total weight for this system is 13.4lbs (6kg).
Mobile Radio Bag
Above is the bag packed. Obligatory International Ameteur Radio Symbol patch front & centre. Being an old camera bag, this easily slings over the shoulder, with it’s padded strap.
Current Equipment
Here is all the current equipment laid out. All the equipment to enable me to set up a station anywhere.
In the following photos I will go into the details.
Main Radio
First off, my main radio. This is the same Wouxun KG-UV950P mobile rig I have posted about previously. I have heatshrunk the power cable to keep it together & attached my standard power connector to the end. More on these later on.
HTs
In the bag I also carry three Baofeng UV-5R handhelds. Extremely useful for short range site communications, along with their charger bases. The charging base on the right has been slightly modified to support charging of my main LED torch as well, which uses similar Li-Ion based packs as the Baofengs.
Baofeng 12v Charger
As the charger bases for the Baofeng HTs take a supply of 10v DC, I have constructed a 12v adaptor system for them. (Which utter prat of an engineer at Baofeng picked 10v?)
Linear Amplifier & SWR Meter
Also included is a small Alinco ELH-2320 35W 2m linear amplifier. This was given to me from the local HackSpace in Manchester. (They don’t have any ham members, besides myself). Also here is my small SWR & Power meter, SDR kit & a pair of syringes. These are filled respectively with Copaslip copper loaded grease, (very good for stopping fasteners exposed to the weather from seizing up), and dielectric silicone grease. (I use this stuff for filling connectors that are exposed to the weather – keeps the water out).
Tools
I always keep essential tools in the bag, here is the small selection of screwdrivers which fit pretty much any screw fastener around, my heavy-duty cable shears (these buggers can cut through starter cable in one go!) and my trusty Gerber Diesel multitool.
Magmount & Pi
Main antenna magmount & a spare Raspberry Pi.
Antenna, Patch Leads, Etc.
Finally, the antennas for the HTs, main dual-band antenna (Nagoya SP-45) for the magmount, a small selection of spare plugs, sockets & adaptors. Also here is a roll of self-amalgamating tape, very handy for waterproofing wiring connections (especially when used in conjunction with the silicone grease), & a roll of solder wick.
Now, the main power connectors of choice for my equipment are Neutrik SpeakOn type connectors:
Neutrik SpeakOn
These connectors have many advantages:
They are positive locking connectors. No more loose connections.
They have a high continuous current rating of 30A RMS.
Relatively weather resistant.
Also, they have two pairs of pins – and as some of my bigger non-radio related equipment is 24v, this allows me to use a single set of plugs for everything. Without having to worry about plugging a 12v device into a 24v socket, and letting out the magic blue genie.
Once everything is packed up, here’s the bag:
Packed
Everything has a neat little pocket for easy access. Some closeups below.
I’ve been doing some tinkering with the RN-52 Bluetooth Audio module from Roving Networks, in prep for building a portable wireless speaker system, & thought I’d share my designs.
Initially I was having some issues with RF noise on the audio output from the RN-52, as I was only using the outputs single-ended. The module didn’t like this treatment, with all the RF whine coming straight out of the speakers.
To fix this issue I have used a pair of jellybean LM386 audio power amplifiers, running in differential input mode. This solves the high-pitched whine when the audio is enabled, & also allows the module to directly drive a set of 32Ω headphones at a reasonable level.
In Eagle I have designed a simple board, routing only the audio output, serial TTL & command mode pins out, along with the supporting power supply circuitry to operate from 12v DC.
RN-52 Breadboard
Above is the current incarnation of the circuit on the breadboard. The RN-52 is on the left, audio power stage in the centre & headphone output on the right.
RN-52 Breakout
The bluetooth module on a breakout board. I was cheap in this case & etched my own board. I’m not paying Sparkfun, (as much as I like them), an extra ~£10 for a small PCB with the pins broken out. Much cheaper to spend 15 minutes with the laser printer & the iron, & do a toner transfer PCB.
As this board is single sided, I added a ground plane on the underside with copper foil, to help with the RF issues. Breadboards really aren’t all that good at rejecting noise induced when there’s a 2.4GHz transceiver mounted on them.
LM386 Amplifier
The LM386 audio power stage. The differential inputs from the module are capacitively coupled with 1µF electrolytics. This setup remarkably reduced the noise on the output. I left these at their default gain of 20, as I’ll be connecting another high power amplifier stage to drive large speakers.
RN-52 Eagle Layout
Here’s the circuit laid out in Eagle, ready for PCB.
RN-52 Eagle PCB
And here’s the PCB layout. Only one link required for the +5v line from the TTL serial port.
As always, the Eagle PCB & Schematic layout files are available at the bottom of the article.
*Update 29-01-15*
Rerouted a few things:
Moved the audio power stage to the +12v rail to improve sound response. – As the LM386 has a max input voltage of 12v (absolute maximum 15v), a regulated supply is recommended. The LM386-N4 variant has a higher voltage range, up to 18v. This should be suitable for an unregulated supply.
Removed 1µF coupling capacitors to reduce distortion & amplifier hiss. The capacitors appeared to cause some instability on the amplifier, causing random distortion. Removing them has cured this. No signal hiss has also been reduced to a very low level.
Reversed input polarity on input of one of the amplifiers – this appears to produce better audio.
Added PWR.EN header to allow connection of power button. Saves hassle of cycling power to the board when the RN-52 goes into sleep mode.
Here is a ZyXel WAP3205 WiFi Access Point that has suffered a reverse polarity event, due to an incorrect power supply being used with the unit.
ZyXEL WAP3205
While most electronic gadgets are protected against reverse polarity with a blocking diode, this unit certainly wasn’t. Applying +12v DC the wrong way round resulted in this:
Blown Switchmode IC (Fuzzy Focus)
That is the remains of the 3.3v regulator IC, blown to smithereens & it even attempted an arson attack. Luckily this was the only damaged component, & I was able to repair the unit by replacing the switching IC with a standalone regulator. (Replacing the IC would have been preferable, if there was anything left of it to obtain a part number from).
I scraped away the pins of the IC to clear the short on the input supply, removed the switching inductor, & tacked on an adjustable regulator module set to 3.3v. Luckily the voltage of the supply is handily marked on the PCB next to the circuit.
Replacement PSU
Replacement SMPS in place on top of the PCB. The output of the supply is connected to one of the pads of L4 (on my unit just an 0 ohm link), the +12v input is connected to the + rail side of C8 & C7 & the final ground connection is hooked in to the back of the barrel jack.
After this replacement, the unit booted straight up as if nothing had happened. All the logic is undamaged!
Continuing from my previous post where I published an Eagle design layout for AD7C‘s Arduino powered VFO, here is a completed board.
I have made some alterations to the design since posting, which are reflected in the artwork download in that post, mainly due to Eagle having a slight psychotic episode making me ground one of the display control signals!
AD9850 VFO
The amplifier section is unpopulated & bypassed as I was getting some bad distortion effects from that section, some more work is needed there.
The Arduino Pro Mini is situated under the display, and the 5v rail is provided by the LM7805 on the lower left corner.
Current draw at 12v input is 150mA, for a power of 1.8W total. About 1W of this is dissipated in the LM7805 regulator, so I have also done a layout with an LM2574 Switching Regulator.
The SMPS version should draw a lot let power, as less is being dissipated in the power supply, but this version is more complex.
DDS VFO-SMPS
Here the SMPS circuit can be seen on the left hand side of the board, completely replacing the linear regulator.
I have not yet built this design, so I don’t know what kind of effect this will have on the output signal, versus the linear regulator. I have a feeling that the switching frequency of the LM2574 (52kHz) might produce some interference on the output of the DDS module. However I have designed this section to the standards in the datasheet, so this should be minimal.
Nevertheless this version is included in the Downloads section at the bottom of this post.
The output coupled through a 100nF capacitor is very clean, as can be seen below, outputting a 1kHz signal. Oscilloscope scale is 0.5ms/div & 1V/div.
VFO Output (Mucky ‘Scope)Scope Connected
Thanks again to Rich over at AD7C for the very useful tool design!
Linked below is the Eagle design files for this project, along with my libraries used to create it.
Here is a simple 555 timer based flyback transformer driver, with the PCB designed by myself for some HV experiments. Above is the Eagle CAD board layout.
The 555 timer is in astable mode, generating a frequency from about 22kHz to 55kHz, depending on the position of the potentiometer. The variable frequency is to allow the circuit to be tuned to the resonant frequency of the flyback transformer in use.
This is switched through a pair of buffer transistors into a large STW45NM60 MOSFET, rated at 650v 45A.
Input power is 15-30v DC, as the oscillator circuit is fed from an independent LM7812 linear supply.
Provision is also made on the PCB for attaching a 12v fan to cool the MOSFET & linear regulator.
Initial Board
Board initially built, with the heatsink on the linear regulator fitted. I used a panel mount potentiometer in this case as I had no multiturn 47K pots in stock.
PCB Traces
Bottom of the PCB. The main current carrying traces have been bulked up with copper wire to help carry the potentially high currents on the MOSFET while driving a large transformer.
This board was etched using the no-peel toner transfer method, using parchement paper as the transfer medium.
MOSFET Heatsinked
Main MOSFET now fitted with a surplus heatsink from an old switchmode power supply. A Fan could be fitted to the top of this sink to cope with higher power levels.
Gate Drive Waveform
This is the gate drive waveform while a transformer is connected, the primary is causing some ringing on the oscillator. The waveform without an attached load is a much cleaner square wave.
Flyback Secondary Waveform
I obtained a waveform of the flyback secondary output by capacitively coupling the oscilloscope probe through the insulation of the HT wire. The pulses of HV can be seen with the decaying ringing of the transformer between cycles.
Corona DischargeArc Discharge
Corona & arc discharges at 12v input voltage.
Download the Eagle schematic files here: [download id=”5561″]
Here is a teardown of the Datakom DKG-171 generator transfer controller. Here is the front of the unit, with the pictogram of the system, the indicator LEDs & the generator test button.
Rear
The rear of the unit features the connection points for the mains, generator & generator control I/O.
PCB Rear
Rear of the PCB with the control relays. The two larger relays switch in the remote contactors to switch the mains supply over between the grid & the generator, while the smaller relay switches 12v power out to a terminal to automatically start the generator.
PCB Front
Front of the PCB with the control logic & main PIC microcontroller.
I have acquired a 24W monocrystalline solar panel to charge my portable battery pack while on the move. This panel will be able to charge all devices I carry on a regular basis with nothing but some sunlight!
Info Panel
Info on the panel itself. Rated at 24W with nominal 17.6v DC, 1.36A output.
Regulator
I have installed a switching regulator in the back of the panel, where the connections would normally be wired straight to the array of cells. This regulates the voltage down to a constant 13.8v to provide more compatibility with 12v charging equipment. I have tested the output of the panel in late day sun, at 1.27A.
As the first USB hub I was using was certainly not stable – it would not enumerate between boots & to get it working again would require waiting around 12 hours before applying power, it has been replaced. This is a cheapie eBay USB hub, of the type shown below.
These hubs are fantastic for hobbyists, as the connections for power & data are broken out on the internal PCB into a very convenient row of pads, perfect for integration into many projects.
Breakout Hub
I now have two internal spare USB ports, for the inbuilt keyboard/mouse receiver & the GPS receiver I plan to integrate into the build.
These hubs are also made in 7-port versions, however I am not sure if these have the same kind of breakout board internally. As they have the same cable layout, I would assume so.
Connector Panel
Here is a closeup of the back of the connectors, showing a couple of additions.
I have added a pair of 470µF capacitors across the power rails, to further smooth out the ripple in the switching power supply, as I was having noise issues on the display.
Also, there is a new reset button added between the main interface connectors, which will be wired into the pair of pads that the Raspberry Pi has to reset the CPU.
This can be used as a power switch in the event the Pi is powered down when not in use & also to reset the unit if it becomes unresponsive.
The final part for the battery pack has finally arrived, the PCM boards. These modules protect the cells by cutting off the power at overcharge, undercharge & overcurrent. Each cell is connected individually on the right, 12v power appears on the left connections. These modules also ensure that all the cells in the pack are balanced.
Progress is finally starting on the power supply unit for the Pi, fitted into the same case style as the Pi itself, this is an 8Ah Li-Poly battery pack with built in voltage regulation.
Regulator Boards
Here are the regulators, fixed to the top of the enclosure. These provide the 12v & 5v power rails for the Pi unit, at a max 3A per rail.
Battery Pack
In the main body of the case the battery pack is fitted. This is made up of 4 3-cell Li-Poly RC battery packs, rated at 2Ah each. All wired in parallel this will provide a total of 8Ah at 12.6v when fully charged.
Powered Up
Here the regulators are powered up from a 13v supply for testing. I have discovered at full load these modules have very bad ripple, so I will be adding extra smoothing capacitors to the power rails to compensate for this.
I/O
Here are the connectors on the top of the unit, outputting the two power rails to the Pi & the DC barrel jack that will be used to charge the pack.
Having had a He-Ne laser tube for a while & the required power supply, it was time to mount the tube in a more sturdy manner. Above the tube is mounted with a pair of 32mm Terry Clips, with the power leads passing through the plastic top. The ballast resistor is built into the silicone rubber on the anode end of the tube. (Right).
Output power is about 1mW for this tube, which came from a supermarket barcode scanner from the 90’s. The tube is dated August 1993 & is manufactured by Aerotech.
Internals
Inside the box is the usual 2.2Ah 12v Li-Po battery pack & the brick type He-Ne laser supply. The small circuit in the centre is a switchmode converter that drops the 12v from the battery pack to the 5v required for the laser supply.
Here is an old chemical dosing system for industrial washing machines. These units are 4-pump models, with dual pumpheads. The motors are reversed to operate alternate pumps in the same head.
Label
From 2006, this is a fairly old unit, and made in the UK.
CPU Board
Main controller PCB, with interface to the power electronics via the ribbon cable, an external serial port for programming to it’s left. Powered by an ST microcontroller. The LCD is below this board.
PCU & Driver PCBs
Main power supply, sense input & motor driver boards. The PSU outputs +5v, +12v & +24v. The inputs on the lower left connect to the washing machine & trigger the pumps via the programming on the CPU. The motors are driven by L6202 H-Bridge drivers from ST.
Motor Assembly
Motor & gearbox assembly on the back of the pumphead. These are 24v DC units with 80RPM gearboxes.
UPDATE:
As it seems to be difficult to find, here is the user manual for this unit:
[download id=”5557″]
As an ultracapacitor has a pretty linear discharge curve, some electronics are required to make them behave more like batteries, such as as SEPIC converter.
On the right is a MuRata Power Solutions UQQ-12/8-Q12P-C switching regulator, which will accept a 9-36v input source & output a constant 12v at 8A (96W).
Just a quickie to note down the current progress of another project – Ultracapacitors.
Pictured right is a bank of 6 2.5v 2600F Maxwell Boostcaps, for a total of 15v at 433.333F. A total energy storage of 48.7kJ.
Coming soon will be the inclusion of charge balancing, using Zener diodes & integrating a DC-DC converter on the output to hold the bank voltage at 12v when being used.
I bought one of these cheap HID kits from eBay to build a high-brightness work light that I could run from my central 12v supply.
At £14.99 I certainly wasn’t expecting anything more than the usual cheap Chinese construction. And that’s definitely what I got 😀
Potted PCB
The casing is screwed together with the cheapest of screws, with heads that are deformed enough to present a problem with removal.
As can be seen here, the inside of the unit is potted in rubber compound, mostly to provide moisture resistance, as these are for automotive use.
The ballast generates a 23kV pulse to strike the arc in the bulb, then supplies a steady 85v AC at 3A, 400Hz to maintain the discharge.
This module could quite easily be depotted as the silicone material used is fairly soft & can be removed with a pointed tool.
Hi-Lo Bulb Assembly
Here is the bulb removed from it’s mount. Under the bulb itself is a solenoid, which tilts the bulb by a few degrees, presumably to provide dim/dip operation for a headlight. This functionality is superfluous to my requirements.
Here are the viewfinder electronics from a 1984 Hitachi VHS Movie VM-1200E Camcorder. These small CRT based displays accept composite video as input, plus 5-12v DC for power.
Screen
Here is the front face of the CRT, diameter is 0.5″.
Power Board
Closeup view of the PCB, there are several adjustments & a pair of connectors. Socket in the upper left corner is the power/video input. Pinout is as follows:
Brown – GND
Red – Video Input
Orange – +12v DC
Yellow – Record LED
The potentiometers on the PCB from left:
H. ADJ
V. ADJ
BRIGHT
FOCUS
PCB Part Number reads: EM6-PCB
This unit utilises the BA7125L deflection IC.
Solderside
Reverse side of the PCB, very few SMT components on this board.
Tube Assembly
Here is an overall view of the CRT assembly with scan coils. Tube model is NEC C1M52P45.
Electron Gun
Closeup view of the CRT neck, showing the electron gun assembly.
CCTV Camera
The old CCTV camera used to feed a composite signal to the CRT board. Sanyo VCC-ZM300P.
CCTV Camera Connections
Connections at the back of the camera. Red & Black pair of wires lead to 12v power supply, Green & Black pair lead to the CRT board’s power pins. Seperate green wire is pushed into the BNC video connector for the video feed. video ground is provided by the PSU’s ground connection.
Connections
Finally the connections at the CRT drive board, left to right, +12v, Video, GND.
To help make my system more efficient, a pair of switching regulators has been fitted, the one shown above is a Texas Instruments PTN78060 switchmode regulator module, which provides a 7.5v rail from the main 12v battery pack.
A Lot like the LM317 & similar linear regulators, these modules require a single program resistor to set the output voltage, but are much more efficient, around the 94% mark at the settings used here.
The 7.5v rail supplies the LM317 constant current circuit in the laser diode driver subsection. This increases efficiency by taking some voltage drop away from the LM317.
5v Regulator
The 7.5v rail also provides power to this Texas Instruments PTH08000 switchmode regulator module, providing the 5v rail for the USB port power.
A quick update to my portable power pack, a mains charging port. Uses a universal DC barrel jack.
Connection to the battery. 1N4001 reverse protection diode under the blue heatshrink tubing. I used a surplus PC CD-ROM audio cable (grey lead). Seen here snaking behind the battery to the DC In Jack.
This is detailing my portable multi-purpose power pack of my own design. Here is an overview, mainly showing the 4Ah 12v Ni-Cd battery pack.
Front Panel Right
Panel Features – Bottom: Car cigar lighter socket, main power keyswitch. Top: LED toggle switch, provision for upcoming laser project, Red main Power LED, 7A circuit breaker.
Front Panel Left
Top: Toggle switch serving post terminals, USB Port.
Post terminals supply unregulated 12v for external gadgets. USB port is standard 5v regulated for charging phones, PDAs etc.
Bottom: Pair of XLR connectors for external LED lights. Switches on their right control power & the knob controls brightness.
Additions are being made to this all the time, the latest being a 2W laser diode driver. Update to come soon!
Tip Jar
If you’ve found my content useful, please consider leaving a donation by clicking the Tip Jar below!
All collected funds go towards new content & the costs of keeping the server online.
