Here’s a nice little feature-packed USB power meter, the UM25C. This unit has USB-C along with the usual USB type A connectors, along with a bluetooth radio for remote monitoring of stats via a Windows or Android app. Construction is nice, it’s a stack of two PCBs, and polycarbonate cover plates, secured together with brass posts & screws.
Back Cover
The back cover has the legend for all the side connectors, along with the logo.
USB Micro Input
Down the sides are the user interface buttons, and here the Micro-B input connector. The 4-pin header is visible here that takes serial data down to the bluetooth section.
USB-C Connectors
The other side has the remaining pair of buttons, and the USB-C I/O. I don’t yet own anything USB-C based, but this is good future proofing.
LCD Display
Removing the top plastic cover plate reveals the small 1″ TFT LCD module. This will be hot-bar soldered underneath the screen. There’s an unused footprint next to the USB input connector, judging by the pin layout it’s probably for a I²C EEPROM.
Main Board Components
The underside of the top PCB has all the main components. The brains of the operation is a ST STM8S005C6T6 microcontroller. It’s at the basic end of the STM range, with a 16MHz clock, 32K flash, EEPROM, 10-bit ADC, SPI, UART & I²C. The main 0.010Ω current shunt is placed at the top left of the board in the negative rail. A couple of SOT-23 components in the centre of the board, I haven’t been able to identify properly, but I think they may be MOSFETs. The large electrolytic filter capacitor has a slot routed into the PCB to allow it to be laid flat. Providing the main power rail is a SOT-89 M5333B 3.3v LDO regulator.
Bluetooth Radio
The bottom board contains the bluetooth radio module, this is a BK3231 Bluetooth HID SoC. The only profile advertised by this unit is a serial port. There’s a local 3.3v LDO regulator & support components, along with an indicator LED.
This is a pair of modules that Maplin was selling some time back, to send stereo audio over a 2.4GHz radio link. The transmitter identifies as a USB sound card, I’ve personally used these units to transmit audio about 60ft. The transmitter, above, has a single button for pairing with the receiver below.
Receiver
The receiver unit has a large external antenna, a link status LED & volume buttons, these directly control the volume level on the host PC via the sound card drivers.
Receiver PCB Top
Popping the case open on the receiver reveals a large PCB, holding the chipset, along with the audio output jacks & Mini-USB power input. The antenna Coax is soldered to the PCB.
Receiver PCB Bottom
The top of the board has the control buttons, and the status LED.
Receiver Chipset
The chipset used here is a Nordic Semiconductor nRF20Z01 2.4GHz Stereo Audio Streamer, there’s a small microcontroller which does all the register magic on the RF transceiver. The RF chain is at the top of the photo, audio outputs on the top left, and the micro USB power input & voltage regulators at bottom left.
Transmitter PCB Top
The transmitter PCB has a Sonix USB Audio Codec, to interface with the host PC. This is then fed into another Nordic Semi part on the opposite side of the board:
Transmitter PCB Bottom
The bottom of the transmitter has the RF section, and another small control microcontroller.
Here’s the solar charge controller to go with the MT50 from the last post. This is the 40A version of the EpEver Tracer A series, the 4210A. This unit is large, and very heavy. Most of this weight comes from the enormous heatsink which doubles as the mounting plate for all the other components, and the large inductors that are going to be required for the DC-DC conversion that MPPT requires.
Front Panel
The front panel has a basic LCD, which shows various stats, such as PV Volts & Amps, and battery bank Volts & Amps. The pair of buttons are used to navigate the basic menu to configure some options, along with switching the load terminals ON/OFF.
Specifications
There’s a specs label on the top, with a slight difference here vs the manual, which states the max. PV volts as 92v.
Main PCB Overview
Removing 4 machine screws from the bottom of the unit allows the top to come off. Like the MT50 remote panel, this unit also has moulded-in brass thread inserts in the plastic parts. The PCB in here is heavily comformal coated, which stops me from reading the laser-etched numbers on the semiconductor devices, so there will be few details there.
Main PCB Lower
Here’s the bottom section of the main PCB, with the enormous screw terminals, which will easily take cables up to about 16mm². The RJ-45 jack which hosts the unit’s RS-485 bus is to the right, and a smaller 2-pin connector on the left sorts out the battery temperature sensor.
The DC output MOSFET switches are hiding just behind the right-hand terminals, there’s a pair of them in this unit to handle the output current. Some beefy diodes polarity-protect both the battery & PV inputs.
Board Centre
Moving up the board shows two 35A automotive blade fuses soldered into the board – these would be a real pain to replace if they ever blew, however with the electronic load current protection built into this unit, it’s an unlikely situation, unless something went hideously wrong. The main switching devices for the DC-DC converter are hidden – they’re clamped to the heatsink with the bars at right angles in the photo, I’m not going to dig any deeper into this just for those though – they’re just TO220 devices.
Under a load of thermal gunk on the right are 4 current shunt resistors, and the amplifiers for reading their values. These 1206-size SMD resistors looked a bit small for the power rating to me, but they’re heatsinked in operation to a small heatsink mounted in the top cover.
Board Upper
The upper section of the PCB hosts the main microcontroller, and the connections over to the front panel LCD & buttons. Couldn’t really get much info from these chips, due to the conformal coating.
Toroidal Inductors
Right at the top of the unit are these toroidal inductors, potted into aluminium housings. The copper windings of these is very heavy – at least 2.5mm². They’re electrically in parallel, the 20A version would only have a single inductor.
Current Shunt Heatsink
This small heatsink sits inside the top cover, and provides some cooling to the current shunts.
Display Board
Not much to say for the display board, there’s going to be nothing here apart from an I²C LCD driver & the pair of front panel buttons, so I won’t bother removing this from the case.
Here’s the MT50 controller from EpEver, that interfaces with it’s Tracer MPPT solar charge controllers, and gives access to more programming options on the charge controllers, without the need for a laptop. The display is a large dot-matrix unit, with built in backlight. Above is the display on the default page, showing power information for the entire system.
PCB Rear
The rear plastic cover is held in place by 4 machine screws, which thread into brass inserts in the plastic frame – nice high quality touch on the design here, no cheap self tapping plastic screws. Both power & data arrive via an Ethernet cable, but the communication here is RS-485, and not compatible with Ethernet! The PCB is pretty sparse, with comms & power on the left, LCD connection in the centre, and the microcontroller on the right.
RS-485 Transceiver
On the left of the board is the RS0485 transceiver, and a small voltage regulator. There’s also a spot for a DC barrel jack, which isn’t included in this model for local power supply.
STM32 Microcontroller
The other side of the board holds the main microcontroller which communicates with the charge controller. This is a STM32F051K8 from ST Microelectronics. With a 48MHz ARM Cortex M0 core, and up to 64K of flash, this is a pretty powerful MCU that has very little to do in this application.
PCB Front
The front of the PCB has the ENIG contacts of the front panel buttons, and the LCD backlight assembly. There’s nothing else under the plastic backlight spreader either.
LCD Rear
The front case holds the LCD module in place with glue, and the rubber buttons are placed underneath, which is heat staked in place.
LCD Model
The LCD is a YC1420840CS6 from eCen in China. Couldn’t find much out about this specific LCD.
Here’s an eBay oddity – it’s got the same light & lens mechanism as the cheap “disco light” style bulbs on eBay, but this one is battery powered & has a built in MP3 player.
MP3 Disco Light
This device simply oozes cheapness. The large 4″ plastic dome lens sits on the top above the cheap plastic moulding as a base, which also contains the MP3 player speaker.
Controls
There are few controls on this player, the volume buttons are combined with the skip track buttons, a long press operates the volume control, while a short press skips the tracks. Several options for getting this thing to play music are provided:
Bluetooth – Allows connection from any device for bluetooth audio
USB – Plugging in a USB flash drive with MP3 files
SD Card – Very similar to the USB flash drive option, just a FAT32 formatted card with MP3 files
Aux – There’s no 3.5mm jack on this unit for an audio input, instead a “special” USB cable is supplied that is both used to charge the built in battery & feed an audio signal. This is possible since the data lines on the port aren’t used. But it’s certainly out of the ordinary.
Top Removed
The top comes off with the removal of a single screw in the centre of the lens. The shaft in the centre that holds the lens is attached to a small gear motor under the LED PCB. There’s 6 LEDs on the board, to form an RGB array. Surprisingly for a very small battery powered unit these are bright to the point of being utterly offensive.
Mainboard
Here’s the mainboard removed from the plastic base. There’s not much to this device, even with all the options it has. The power switch is on the left, followed by the Mini-B USB charging port & aux audio input. The USB A port for a flash drive is next, finishing with the µSD slot. I’m not sure what the red wire is for on the left, it connects to one of the pins on the USB port & then goes nowhere.
Audio Amplifier
The audio amplifier is a YX8002D, I couldn’t find a datasheet for this, but it’s probably Class D.
Main Chipset
Finally there’s the main IC, which is an AC1542D88038. I’ve not been able to find any data on this part either, it’s either a dedicated MP3 player with Bluetooth radio built in, or an MCU of some kind.The RF antenna for the Bluetooth mode is at the top of the board.
Just behind the power switch is a SOT23-6 component, which should be the charger for the built in Lithium Ion cell.
Lithium Ion Cell
The cell itself is a prismatic type rated in the instructions at 600mAh, however my 1C discharge test gave a reading of 820mAh, which is unusual for anything Li-Ion based that comes from eBay 😉
There is cell protection provided, it’s under the black tape on the end, nothing special here.
The main issue so far with this little player is the utterly abysmal battery life – at full volume playing MP3s from a SD card, the unit’s current draw is 600mA, with the seizure & blindness-inducing LEDs added on top, the draw goes up to about 1200mA. The built in charger is also not able to keep up with running the player while charging. This in all only gives a battery life of about 20 minutes, which really limits the usability of the player.
The other day at the local canal-side waterpoint, this TV was dumped for recycling, along with another later model Colour TV. This is a 1970’s Black & White mains/battery portable made by Thorn. It’s based on a common British Radio Corporation 1590 chassis. Having received a soaking from rain, I didn’t expect this one to work very well.
Tuner
Being so old, there is no electronic control of the tuner in this TV, and only has the capability to mechanically store 4 different channels. The tuner itself is a cast box with a plastic cover.
Tuning Lever
The mechanical buttons on the front of the TV push on this steel bar, by different amounts depending on the channel setting. This bar is connected to the tuning capacitor inside the tuner.
Tuner Compartments
Unclipping the plastic cover, with it’s lining of aluminium foil for shielding reveals the innards of the tuner module.
Tuner Input Stage
Here’s the tuner front end RF transistor, which has it’s can soldered into the frame, this is an AF239 germanium UHF transistor, rated at up to 900MHz.
Tuner IF Mixer Stage
As the signal propagates through the compartments of the tuner, another transistor does the oscillator / IF mixing, an AF139 germanium, rated to 860MHz.
Tuning Capacitor
As the buttons on the front of the set are pushed, moving the lever on the outside, the tuning capacitor plates intermesh, changing the frequency that is filtered through the tuner. The outer blades of the moving plates are slotted to allow for fine tuning of the capacitance, and therefore transmitted frequency by bending them slightly.
Mains Transformer
Being a dual supply TV that can operate on either 12v battery power or mains, this one has a large centre tapped mains transformer that generates the low voltage when on AC power. Full wave rectification is on the main PCB. The fuse of this transformer has clearly been blown in the past, as it’s been wound with a fine fuse wire around the outside to repair, instead of just replacing the fuse itself.
Chassis Rear
The back of the set has all the picture controls on the bottom edge, with the power input & antenna connections on the left just out of shot. The CRT in this model is an A31-120W 12″ tube, with a really wide deflection angle of 110°, which allows the TV to be smaller.
Main PCB
The bottom of the mainboard has all the silkscreen markings for the components above which certainly makes servicing easier 😉 This board’s copper tracks would have been laid out with tape, obviously before the era of PCB design software.
Components
The components on this board are laid out everywhere, not just in square grids. The resistors used are the carbon composition type, and at ~46 years old, they’re starting to drift a bit. After measuring a 10K resistor at 10.7K, all of these would need replacing I have no doubt. Incedentally, this TV could be converted to take a video input without the tuner, by lifting the ferrite beaded end of L9 & injecting a signal there.
Flyback Primary Windings
The flyback (Line Output Transformer) is of the old AC type, with the rectifier stack on top in the blue tube, as opposed to more modern versions that have everything potted into the same casing. The primary windings are on the other leg of the ferrite core, making these transformers much more easily repairable. This transformer generates the 12kV required for the CRT final anode, along with a few other voltages used in the TV, for focussing, etc.
Rectifier Stack
The main EHT rectifier stack looks like a huge fuse, inside the ceramic tube will be a stack of silicon diodes in series, to withstand the high voltage present.
Horizontal Output Transistor
This is the main switching transistor that drives the flyback, the HOT. This is an AU113, another germanium type, rated at 250v 4A. The large diode next to the transistor is the damper.
I’ve managed to find all the service information for this set online, link below!
[download id=”5616″]
More to come if I manage to get this TV working!
As one of my current projects involves a small petrol engine – a Honda GX35 clone, I figured an hour counter would be very handy to keep an eye on service intervals. (More to come on the engine itself later on). I found a device that would suit my needs on good old eBay.
Inductive Engine Monitor
These engine monitors are pretty cheap, at about £4. The sensing is done by a single heat-resistant silicone wire, that wraps around the HT lead to the spark plug. The unit can be set for different firing intervals via the buttons. In the case of most single-cylinder 4-stroke engines, the spark plug fires on every revolution – wasted-spark ignition. This simplifies the ignition system greatly, by not requiring the timing signal be driven from 1/2 crankshaft speed. The second “wasted” spark fires into the exhaust stroke, so has no effect.
Internals
The back cover is lightly glued into place with a drop of cyanoacrylate in opposite corners, but easily pops off. The power is supplied by a soldered-in 3v Lithium cell. The main microcontroller has no number laser etched on to it at all – it appears it skipped the marking machine.
Input Filtering
The input from the sensing wire comes in through a coupling capacitor & is amplified by a transistor. It’s then fed into a 74HC00D Quad 2-Input NAND gate, before being fed into the microcontroller.
Pickup
The pickup wire is simply wound around the spark plug lead. I’ve held it in position here with some heatshrink tubing. Heat in this area shouldn’t be an issue as it’s directly in the airflow from the flywheel fan.
Here’s a useful buck-boost DC-DC converter from eBay, this one will do 36v DC at 6A maximum output current. Voltage & current are selected on the push buttons, when the output is enabled either the output voltage or the output current can be displayed in real time.
Display PCB
Here’s the display PCB, which also has the STM32 microcontroller that does all the magic. There appears to be a serial link on the left side, I’ve not yet managed to get round to hooking it into a serial adaptor to see if there’s anything useful on it.
Display Drive & Microcontroller
The bottom of the board holds the micro & the display multiplexing glue logic.
Main PCB
Not much on the mainboard apart from the large switching inductors & power devices. There’s also a SMPS PWM controller, probably being controlled from the micro.
When I ordered the tiny USB soldering iron, I decided a proper iron upgrade would be a good idea. Looking around for something that didn’t require AC mains power turned up the TS100, a Chinese design, that unusually is actually very good! Above is the handle itself, with it’s small OLED display & two operation buttons.
This iron is controlled by a STM32 ARM microcontroller, the firmware & schematics are completely open-source.
DC Input Jack / USB Port
The bottom end of the iron has the main DC input jack, designed with laptop chargers in mind (DC input range from 10v-24v). Above that is the micro USB port for programming.
Heating Element Socket
The iron tips slot into the other end, many different tip types & shapes are available. The one supplied was the simple conical tip.
Standby Screen
Plugging the iron into some power gets a standby screen – it doesn’t just start heating immediately, for safety.
Heating
The left hand button starts the heater, which on a 24v input voltage gets to operating temperature well within 10 seconds.
Temperature Stable
The right hand screen icon changes when the temperature has stabilized. The control PCB has an integrated accelerometer, leaving the iron hot for a few minutes triggers a timeout & it powers down. Once picked up again, the heater instantly restarts.
The operating temperature is adjustable with the pair of buttons, from 100°C to 400°C.
Different Bits
Here’s a selection of bits for the iron. The design is very similar to the Hakko T15 series of irons, but these are a much shorter version. Like the Hakko versions, the actual tips aren’t replaceable, once the bit burns out, the entire assembly is replaced.
TS100 Soldering Iron
Here’s the iron fully assembled. The entire device is about the same length as just the heating element from a Hakko T15!
It’s well known that there are two versions of the 701 type controller available for Eberspacher heaters, the version with the blue logo is the official un-restricted model, while the version with the white logo is a version built for BT that restricts the heater to 1 hour runtime & has no diagnostics built in.
As these devices are microcontroller driven, I assumed that the hardware would be the same, only the code running in the micro being the bit that Eberspacher changed. This option would certainly have been the lowest cost.
Controller PCB Rear
Here’s the PCB removed from the plastic housing. There are definitely some differences that I can tell. As the un-restricted version has an extra wire for the diagnostic serial interface, and this board has no unpopulated parts, the PCB is definitely a different version.
In the centre is a Microchip PIC16C622 microcontroller, the OTP version in this case for cost reductions. (I may try reading the binary from this chip in the future, chances are it’s code protected though).
Below the micro is an NXP PCF8577C 32-segment LCD controller, this has an I²C interface to the PIC.
The temperature control function on these heaters is done via applying a resistance to one of the control lines, between 1750Ω-2180Ω, ±80Ω. (Very odd values these, not to mention no standard components can create this range easily, bloody engineers >_<). This is accomplished in hardware with a BU2092F I²C shift register from Rohm, which is connected to a bank of resistors. The microcontroller will switch combinations of these into the circuit to get the range of resistances required.
The rest of the circuit is local power regulation & filtering.
Controller PCB Front
There’s not much on the other side of the PCB, just the LCD itself & the contacts for the buttons.
I’ve been a vaper now for many years, after giving up the evil weed that is tobacco. Here’s my latest acquisition in the vaping world, the JoyeTech eVIC 60W. This one is branded by Totally Wicked as the Forza VT60.
18650 Cell
Powered by a single 18650 Li-Ion cell, this one is a Sony VTC4 series, 2100mAh.
Under the battery a pair of screws hold the electronics in the main cast alloy casing.
OLED Display
After removing the screws, the entire internal assembly comes out of the case, here’s the top of the PCB with the large OLED display in the centre.
USB Jack
On the right side of the board is the USB jack for charging & firmware updates. The adjustment buttons are also at this end.
Output
On the left side of the board is the main output connector & the fire button. Unlike many eCigs I’ve torn down before, the wiring in this one is very beefy – it has to be to handle the high currents used with some atomizers – up to 10A.
PCB Reverse
Removing the board from the battery holder shows the main power circuitry & MCU. The aluminium heatsink is thermally bonded to the switching MOSFETs, a pair under each end. The switching inductor is under the gap in the centre of the heatsink.
DC-DC Converter
A close up of the heatsink shows the very slim inductor under the heatsink.
Microcontroller
The main MCU in this unit has a very strange part number, which I’ve been unable to find information on, but it’s probably 8081 based.
The OPN-2001 is a very small handheld barcode data collection device, used for stock keeping, inventory, etc.
It’s powered by an internal Li-Poly cell, at 150mAh, and has storage for 1000 barcodes in it’s internal memory.
USB
The unit is charged via it’s USB port, the data can also be downloaded using this interface.
ID Label
Here’s the bottom of the unit with it’s label. Serial number removed to protect the guilty. 😉
Cover Removed
Here the bottom cover has been removed from the scanner, showing the internals. The barcode engine is on the left, this contains all the hardware & logic for scanning & storing the barcode data. The Li-Poly cell is under the FFC cable wrapped in foam tape for protection.
PCB Removed
Here’s the PCB & engine assembly removed from the casing. The lower PCB appears to just handle the user interface buttons, beeper & USB power & charging circuitry. All the processing logic is on the barcode engine itself.
PCB Reverse
Here’s the back of the support PCB, with the pair of buttons for scanning & deleting barcodes. Also on this board is a 32kHz clock crystal & a Ricoh RV5C386A RTC IC. This communicates with the main processor via I²C for storing the date & time with the barcodes. At the bottom right corner are some of the power supply passives.
Support PCB
Here’s the other side of the support PCB, with the beeper, battery connector & the switching regulator to provide the barcode engine with 3.3v power.
Barcode Engine
Here’s the barcode engine itself, which is absolutely tiny, at roughly 20mm square. The main processor & it’s associated Flash ROM are on this PCB. The main processor has an ARM7 32bit core, with 64kB of RAM, and onboard 512kB of ROM for program & barcode storage.
Mirror
Here’s the business end of the barcode engine, the mirror vibrates at 100Hz to produce the scan line. The laser diode is rated at 1mW, 650nm. This is in the deep red range.
Unfortunately the manual for the eBay GY561 Frequency & RF Power Meter is very badly translated, but I think I have figured out the calibration procedure, so here it goes 🙂
Initial Screen
On removing the front cover, which is just clipped on, there are 4 buttons. The only button that is usually available is the one on the far right, the power button.
I will term these buttons A, B, C, D, starting from the left side.
To get into the initial calibration screen, in the above image, hold button A while the power button (D) is pressed. Release the power button (D), then release button A.
The meter will show the screen above, where the frequency to calibrate can be chosen. This goes in 5MHz steps, 0-500MHz, using the B button to go down in frequency, and the C button to go up.
Once you’ve selected the frequency you wish to calibrate against, press button A, and the following screen will appear:
Frequency Calibration Screen
On this screen, the actual calibration can be done.
The number in the bottom left signifies the power level setting, from 1-5. The centre number is the calibration setting in Watts. The D in the bottom corner signifies that the setting is at the factory default.
Button C will cycle through the power level settings, for 2W, 5W, 10W 20W, 40W. This allows calibration at different power levels per frequency.
Once you have the frequency to calibrate, and you’ve selected the power level to calibrate at, connect a known RF power source to the input of the unit.
At this point, key the transmitter, and press button A. The display will change to the following:
Calibration Stage 2
When on this screen, you can set the power level of your RF source. Use the A key for +0.1W, the B key for +1W, and the C key for +10W.
Once you’ve keyed in the power of your source, press button D to save the setting. The “S” in the bottom corner will change to a “C”, to indicate a user calibration has been entered:
Calibration Complete
If you make a mistake with entering the power level, press the “C” key to cycle up to 60W, once at this level, another press of the button will reset the reading to zero. You can then enter the power level again.
If you wish to revert a user-entered setting to the factory default, press button B on the page above. The “D” will reappear in the bottom corner to indicate the setting has been restored.
At this point you can either press button C to calibrate at another power level for this frequency, or press button D to go back to the frequency selection.
Press button D again when at the frequency selection page to turn the unit off. The unit will then power up normally next time the power button (D) is pressed.
I recently posted about a small analog SWR/Power meter I got from eBay, and figured it needed some improvement.
After some web searching I located a project by ON7EQ, an Arduino sketch to read SWR & RF power from any SWR bridge.
The Arduino code is on the original author’s page above, his copyright restrictions forbid me to reproduce it here.
I have also noticed a small glitch in the code when it is flashed to a blank arduino: The display will show scrambled characters as if it has crashed. However pushing the buttons a few times & rebooting the Arduino seems to fix this. I think it’s related to the EEPROM being blank on a new Arduino board.
I have run a board up in Eagle for testing, shown below is the layout:
SWR Meter SCH
The Schematic is the same as is given on ON7EQ’s site. Update: ON7EQ has kindly let me know I’ve mixed up R6 & R7, so make sure they’re switched round when the board is built ;). Fitting the resistors the wrong way around may damage the µC with overvoltage.
SWR Meter PCB
Here’s the PCB layout. I’ve kept it as simple as possible with only a single link on the top side of the board.
PCB Top
Here’s the freshly completed PCB ready to rock. Arduino Pro mini sits in the center doing all the work.
The link over to A5 on the arduino can be seen here, this allows the code to detect the supply voltage, useful for battery operation.
On the right hand edge of the PCB are the pair of SMA connectors to interface with the SWR bridge. Some RF filtering is provided on the inputs.
PCB Bottom
Trackside view of the PCB. This was etched using my tweaked toner transfer method.
LCD Fitted
Here the board has it’s 16×2 LCD module.
Online
Board powered & working. Here it’s set to the 70cm band. The pair of buttons on the bottom edge of the board change bands & operating modes.
As usual, the Eagle layout files are available below, along with the libraries I use.
[download id=”5585″]
[download id=”5573″]
More to come on this when some components arrive to interface this board with the SWR bridge in the eBay meter.
This is a late 90’s business timeclock, used for maintaining records of staff working times, by printing the time when used on a sheet of card.
Front Internal
Here is the top cover removed, which is normally locked in place to stop tampering. The unit is programmed with the 3 buttons & the row of DIP switches along the top edge.
Instructions
Closeup of the settings panel, with all the various DIP switch options.
CPU & Display
Cover plate removed from the top, showing the LCD & CPU board, the backup battery normally fits behind this. The CPU is a 4-bit microcontroller from NEC, with built in LCD driver.
PSU & Drivers
Power Supply & prinhead drivers. This board is fitted with several NPN Darlington transistor arrays for driving the dox matrix printhead.
Printhead
Printhead assembly itself. The print ribbon fits over the top of the head & over the pins at the bottom. The drive hammers & solenoids are housed in the circular top of the unit.
Printhead Bottom
Bottom of the print head showing the row of impact pins used to create the printout.
Bottom of the solenoid assembly with the ribbon cable for power. There are 9 solenoids, to operate the 9 pins in the head.
Return Spring
Top layer of the printhead assembly, showing the leaf spring used to hold the hammers in the correct positions.
Hammers
Hammer assembly. The fingers on the ends of the arms push on the pins to strike through the ribbon onto the card.
Solenoids
The ring of solenoids at the centre of the assembly. These are driven with 3A darlington power arrays on the PSU board.
Gearbox Internals
There is only a single drive motor in the entire unit, that both clamps the card for printing & moves the printhead laterally across the card. Through a rack & pinion this also advances the ribbon with each print.
This is a cheap Sigma branded keychain photoframe. User buttons for power & selecting photos are on the left.
There are two white LEDs on the bottom edge that function as a torch as well.
Display
Front of the unit removed, showing the LCD module. The USB jack is bottom left, next to the pair of white LEDs & above that is the 32kHz watch crystal that the CPU uses for timekeeping.
Back Removed
Here the back has been removed showing the 3.7v Li-Ion cell used to provide power.
Display Folded Back
Here the display has been removed from the PCB exposing the chipset.
Chipset
Here the CPU blob-top chip & a flash memory IC are visible. The CPU is a Sitronix ST2205U.
Top removed from the mouse, the ball fits in the gap in the centre. The slotted discs are visible which contact the ball & move relative to the surface the mouse is on.
PCB
PCB removed from the shell. Pairs of IR LEDs & Phototransistors make rotary encoders with the slotted discs. The microswitches read the mouse buttons & wheel.
IC in the centre interfaces with the PC over a PS/2 connection.
A 5 megapixel digital camera from Vivitar. Visible here is the lens, viewfinder & flash.
Back
Rear of the unit showing the LCD & user control buttons.
Cover Removed
Front frame removed showing some of the internals. Shutter assembly & lens in centre, battery compartment at left.
Rear Cover Removed
Rear frame removede, showing the LCD module & tactile switches.
LCD
LCD module removed from the PCB
Flash PCB
Flash PCB removed. Transformer is fed with the 4.5v from the 3 AA cells & steps it up to ~300v DC for the flash capacitor. A pulse transformer energizes an electrode next to the Xenon flash tube with ~5kV to ionize the gas.
Main PCB
Main PCB removed. Internal flash ROM & RAM IC visible above the SD card socket. USB connector is at the top right, next to the piezo buzzer.
CPU
Main processor on reverse side of the PCB.
Image Sensor
Closeup of the CMOS image sensor with the lens assembly removed.
An early speed radar detector from the early 90’s. Pictures showing the front of the unit with the option buttons.
Bottom
Bottom of the unit showing label. Unlike the newer plastic detectors, the whole casing of this unit is cast aluminium.
Model Uniden Stalker RD-6000W.
PCB Top
PCB removed from the casing. Volume/power control on the left. Option tactile switches on the edge of the PCB, with the indicator LEDs. Power input jack on the right hand side of the PCB. Large aluminium can is the detector assembly, containing the detector diodes. Waveguide horn is at the top.
Waveguide Horn
Shot down the waveguide, showing the detector diodes at the end.
LEDs
Indicators on the front of the unit, X, K & Ka band detection LEDs on the left, Power & detection level (1-4) LEDs in centre. City (C) (Audio (A) & Mute (M) LEDs on the right.
PCB Bottom
Bottom of the PCB, showing detection logic. Piezo buzzer top left.
This is an old legacy wireless mouse from Logitech. This uses a ball rather than optical technology.
Bottom
Bottom of the mouse, showing the battery cover & the mouse ball.
PCB Bottom
Top removed from the mouse, showing the PCB inside. The smaller PCB on the left supports the microswitches for the buttons & mouse wheel.
Switches
Closeup of small PCB showing the microswitches & the IR LED & phototransistor pair for the mouse wheel encoder.
Main PCB
View of main PCB, with interface IC lower right. Pair of quartz crystals provide clocking for the transmitter & internal µC.
Battery contacts are on lower left of the PCB. At the top are the IR pairs for the X & Y axis of the mouse ball.
Encoder Pairs
Closeup of the pairs of IR LEDs & phototransistors that make up the encoders for X/Y movement of the mouse, together with the slotted wheels in the mouse base that rotate with the ball. Steel wire around the smaller PCB is the antenna.
This is a HP PhotoSmart 375 portable photo printer. With built in card reader, screen & PictBridge.
Top of the printer showing the UI Buttons & Screen.
Front
Front of the unit, card reader slots at the top, Pictbridge USB connector at top left. Paper out slot at bottom. Cartridge door is on the right.
Cartridge Door
Here the cartridge door is open. Takes HP 95 Tri-Colour Inkjet Cartridge.
Battery Compartment
Battery compartment on the bottom of the unit. A Li-Ion battery pack can be installed here for mobile photo printing.
Bottom Label
Specifications label.
USB + Power
Power adaptor & USB connection for PC use.
Paper Tray
Rear door opened. Showing the paper feed tray.
Paper Feeder
Rear door has been removed in this shot. Paper feed roller & platen roller can be seen here.
Rear Cover Paper Feeder
Paper holder attached to rear door.
Top Cover
Bottom of the top cover, with connections for the buttons & LCD panel.
Main PCB
This is the main PCB of the unit. Controls all aspects of the printer. CPU in center, card reader sockets are along bottom edge. various support circuitry surrounds the CPU.
Rear
Rear shell has been removed here. Showing the main frame & the carriage drive motor on the left.
Carriage Drive
Closeup of the carriage drive motor & timing belt system. All the motors in this printer are DC servo motors, not steppers.
Main Drive Motor
Main drive motor, feeds paper, drives rollers, operates cleaning mechanism for the inkjets.
Shaft Encoder
Mainshaft encoder. Main drive motor is bottom right hand side with timing belt drive.
CPU
Closeup of the CPU. This is a Phillips ARM chip, unknown spec.
Card Reader Sockets
Detail of the card reader sockets, this unit takes all current types of Flash memory card.
HP 95 Tri-color Inkjet Print Cartridge
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