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Arduino SWR Power Meter Final Parts & Calibration

Now the final bits have arrived for the SWR Meter module, I can do the final assembly.

SMA Connectors
SMA Connectors

Here the SMA connectors are installed on the side of the eBay meter, for forward & reverse power tap.
These are simply tee’d off the wiring inside the meter where it connects to the switch.

Uncalibrated
Uncalibrated

The meter is connected to the module via a pair of RG58 SMA leads, above is a readout before calibration, using one of my Baofeng UV-5Rs.

I’m using my GY561 eBay Power Meter as a calibration source, and as this isn’t perfect, the readings will be slightly off. If I can get my hands on an accurate power meter & dummy load I can always recalibrate.

Tools are only as accurate as the standard they were calibrated from!

After calibration, here’s the readings on 2m & 70cm. These readings coincide nicely with the readings the GY561 produce, to within a couple tenths of a watt. SWR is more than 1:1 as the dummy load in the GY561 isn’t exactly 50Ω.

High Power VHF
High Power VHF
Low Power VHF
Low Power VHF
High Power UHF
High Power UHF
Low Power UHF
Low Power UHF

Shortly I’ll calibrate against 6m & 10m so I can use it on every band I have access to 🙂

 

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Solderless N-Type Connector Fitting

I thought I’d detail the process I use to fit an N-Type connector to a coax cable, as I don’t usually solder these connectors.

Backnut & Seal
Backnut & Seal

Before stripping, fit the backnut, washer & rubber seal onto the cable.

Stripped Coax
Stripped Coax

The cable is first stripped back to reveal the shield. This cable has a foil tape as well as the usual copper braid.

Shield Connection
Shield Connection

Once the inner core has been revealed, the shield washer is fitted. This has a knife edge on the inner diameter, to fit between the outer sheath & the shield, this makes the electrical connection.

Inner Insulation
Inner Insulation

With the shield washer fitted, the inner insulation can be cut back, it should be just about level with the final washer when you’re done, this allows the connector to fit together properly.

Center Core Trimmed
Center Core Trimmed

Trim the center conductor to about double the length required, to allow it to be folded over, as shown. This allows the copper to spring back against the center pin of the connector when it’s fitted, to allow a good connection.

Final Washer
Final Washer

Here the final washer is fitted over the shield washer. The center insulation should be at the same level to allow the center pin to fit properly.

Center Terminal
Center Terminal

Finally, the center pin is pushed over the inner conductor of the cable, with it’s insulating spacer. Soldering these usually results in the plastic melting and a ruined connector.

Finished Plug
Finished Plug

Finished plug. Make sure the backnut is tightened fully home, without twisting the connector body itself. After I’m done with the termination, I use self-amalgamating tape to form a strain relief on the cable. This prevents it from breaking at the point where it enters the backnut.

I’ve been terminating these connectors this way for a long time & have not had any issues with SWR or bad connections, dispite the fact that I don’t solder them. This also has the advantage that fewer tools are required for the job & the connectors can easily be reused should the cable wear out.

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GY561 Frequency & Power Meter

The latest addition to my radio shack is the GY561 frequency & power meter, which has already come in useful for measuring the output power of all my radios.

GY561
GY561

It’s a small device, roughly the same size & weight as a stock UV-5R. Power is provided by 3 AAA cells.

Display
Display

The display is a standard HD44780 8×2 module. The display on this unit isn’t backlit, so no operating in the dark.

Cover Removed
Cover Removed

The cover pops off easily to allow access to the internals, without having to remove any screws!
The 4 screws on the back of the unit hold the heatsink plate for the 50W 50Ω dummy load resistor.
Removing the cover reveals a couple of adjustments, for frequency & RF power calibration.

There are also 3 tactile switches that aren’t on the front panel. According to the manual (which in itself is a masterpiece of Chinglish), they are used to software calibrate the unit if an accurate RF power source is available. I will attempt to do a reasonable translation when time allows.

Disassembly further than this involves some desoldering in awkward places, so a search of the internet revealed an image of the rest of the internal components. In the case of my meter, all the part numbers have been scrubbed off the ICs in an attempt to hide their purpose. While it’s possible to cross-reference IC databooks & find the part numbers manually, this process is a time consuming one. Luckily the image I managed to locate doesn’t have the numbers scrubbed.

Total Disassembly
Total Disassembly

Under the LCD is some 74HC series logic, and a prescaler IC as seen in the previous frequency counter post. However in this unit the prescaler is a MB506 microwave band version to handle the higher frequencies specified.
In this case however the main microcontroller is an ATMEGA8L.
This is complemented by a SN54HC393 4-bit binary counter for the frequency side of things. This seems to make it much more usable down to lower frequencies, although the manual is very generous in this regard, stating that it’s capable of reading down to 1kHz. In practice I’ve found the lowest it reliably reads the frequency input is 10MHz, using my AD9850 DDS VFO Module as a signal source.
It did however read slightly high on all readings with the DDS, but this could have been due to the low power output of the frequency source.
Just like the other frequency counter module, this also uses a trimmer capacitor to adjust the microcontroller’s clock frequency to adjust the calibration.

The power supply circuitry is in the bottom left corner of the board, in this case a small switching supply. The switching regulator is needed to boost the +4.5v of the batteries to +5v for the logic.
Also, as the batteries discharge & their terminal voltage drops, the switching regulator will allow the circuit to carry on functioning. At present I am unsure of the lower battery voltage limit on the meter, but AAA cells are usually considered dead at 0.8v terminal voltage. (2.4v total for the 3 cells).
When turned on this meter draws 52mA from the battery, and assuming 1200mAh capacity for a decent brand-name AAA cell, this should give a battery life of 23 hours continuous use.

On the back of the main PCB is a 5v relay, which seems to be switching an input attenuator for higher power levels, although I only managed to trigger it on the 2m band.

Finally, right at the back attached to an aluminium plate, is the 50Ω dummy load resistor. This component will make up most of the cost of building these, at roughly £15.

On my DVM, this termination reads at about 46Ω, because of the other components on the board are skewing the reading. There are a pair of SMT resistors, at 200Ω & 390Ω in series, and these are connected across the 50Ω RF resistor, giving a total resistance of 46.094Ω.
This isn’t ideal, and the impedance mismatch will probably affect the calibration of the unit somewhat.

The heatsinking provided by the aluminium plate is minimal, and the unit gets noticeably warm within a couple of minutes measuring higher power levels.
High power readings should definitely be limited to very short periods, to prevent overheating.
The RF is sampled from the dummy load with a short piece of Teflon coax.

There’s a rubber duck antenna included, but this is pretty useless unless it’s almost in contact with the transmitting antenna, as there’s no input amplification. It might be handy for detecting RF emissions from power supplies, etc.

For the total cost involved I’m not expecting miracles as far as accuracy is concerned, (the manual states +/-10% on power readings).
The frequency readout does seem to be pretty much spot on though, and the ability to calibrate against a known source is handy if I need some more accuracy in the future.

I’ve also done an SWR test on the dummy load, and the results aren’t good.

At 145.500 MHz, the SWR is 3:1, while at 433.500 it’s closer to 4:1. This is probably due to the lower than 50Ω I measured at the meter’s connector.
These SWR readings also wander around somewhat as the load resistor warms up under power.

I’ll probably also replace the AAA cells with a LiPo cell & associated charge/protection circuitry, to make the unit chargeable via USB. Avoiding disposable batteries is the goal.

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Arduino Based SWR/PWR Meter – The Board

I recently posted about a small analog SWR/Power meter I got from eBay, and figured it needed some improvement.

After some web searching I located a project by ON7EQ, an Arduino sketch to read SWR & RF power from any SWR bridge.
The Arduino code is on the original author’s page above, his copyright restrictions forbid me to reproduce it here.

I have also noticed a small glitch in the code when it is flashed to a blank arduino: The display will show scrambled characters as if it has crashed. However pushing the buttons a few times & rebooting the Arduino seems to fix this. I think it’s related to the EEPROM being blank on a new Arduino board.

I have run a board up in Eagle for testing, shown below is the layout:

SWR Meter SCH
SWR Meter SCH

The Schematic is the same as is given on ON7EQ’s site.
Update: ON7EQ has kindly let me know I’ve mixed up R6 & R7, so make sure they’re switched round when the board is built ;). Fitting the resistors the wrong way around may damage the µC with overvoltage.

SWR Meter PCB
SWR Meter PCB

Here’s the PCB layout. I’ve kept it as simple as possible with only a single link on the top side of the board.

PCB Top
PCB Top

Here’s the freshly completed PCB ready to rock. Arduino Pro mini sits in the center doing all the work.
The link over to A5 on the arduino can be seen here, this allows the code to detect the supply voltage, useful for battery operation.
On the right hand edge of the PCB are the pair of SMA connectors to interface with the SWR bridge. Some RF filtering is provided on the inputs.

PCB Bottom
PCB Bottom

Trackside view of the PCB. This was etched using my tweaked toner transfer method.

LCD Fitted
LCD Fitted

Here the board has it’s 16×2 LCD module.

Online
Online

Board powered & working. Here it’s set to the 70cm band. The pair of buttons on the bottom edge of the board change bands & operating modes.
As usual, the Eagle layout files are available below, along with the libraries I use.

[download id=”5585″]

[download id=”5573″]

More to come on this when some components arrive to interface this board with the SWR bridge in the eBay meter.

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Wouxun KG-UV950P RF Connector Replacement

In my original review, I noted that this radio was supplied with a SO-259 socket for the antenna connection.
However I’m less than fond of these, due to their non-constant impedance, which can cause signal loss issues at VHF/UHF. Because of this, I’ve replaced it with a high quality N-type connector. These connectors are much better, as they are a constant 50Ω impedance, they’re weather resistant, and being rated to 11GHz, are more than sufficient for a radio that will only do up to 70cm.

RF Output Jack
RF Output Jack

Here can be seen the point where the connection is made to the PCB.
I’ve already replaced the socket in this photo. The pair of solder pads either side of the central RF point were soldered to wings on the back of the original SO-259. As there are a pair of screws, also connected to the ground plane, there have been no signal issues with just using the frame of the radio as the ground point. Shown below is the original socket, with the ground wings.

Original SO-259
Original SO-259

Finally, here is the back of the radio with it’s shiny new N connector.

New Connection
New Connection

Chassis mount connectors are pretty standard, so this new connector fits perfectly into the same recess of the original. Looks like factory fitted!

I am now standardising on N connectors for everything in my radio shack, next on the project list for conversion is the SWR meter I recently acquired.

Stay tuned for more!

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Moonraker SWR270 SWR & Power Meter

Meter Front
Meter Front

As I’m building up my radio shack, I figured an SWR meter would be a handy addition to my arsenal. This is a cheap Moonraker brand meter, which also will measure RF power. Above the front of the meter is shown, with the moving coil meter movement on the left, calibration adjustment on the right & the forward/reverse power switch.

Meter Rear
Meter Rear

For connections, standard SO-259 jacks are provided. The casing is sturdy 1mm steel. This is good, considering it’ll probably take a beating in my portable radio bag.

Directional Coupler PCB
Directional Coupler PCB

Here the cover is removed, showing some of the internals. The large PCB across the back is the directional coupler.

Directional Coupler Circuit
Directional Coupler Circuit

The SO-259 connectors are bridged with a transmission line, (the track covered in solder in the image below), while there are a pair of sense lines running alongside. This main line is electromagnetically coupled to the two smaller sense lines, which are terminated at one end with resistors, with diodes at the other to rectify the coupled signal.
The termination resistors are sized to match the impedance of the sense lines.
The diodes, having rectified the coupled RF, produce DC voltages representing the value of the forward & reverse RF power. These DC voltages are smoothed with the capacitors.

PCB Marking
PCB Marking

The PCB is dated 19-8-2011, so it’s a fairly old design.

Adjustments
Adjustments

Here is visible the back of the user calibration adjuster, with the factory calibration trimmer.

Meter Movement
Meter Movement

Back of the meter movement. This is a standard moving coil type. Nothing special.

 

This meter will soon be modified to accept connection of an external Arduino-based SWR & power meter, which I can calibrate individually for each band.
Stay tuned for that upcoming project.